"Simple Green & Alcohol" Ball Cleaner Showdown v03

[bowl1820]

"Simple Green & Alcohol" Ball Cleaner Showdown v03


Published on Mar 4, 2016
A average bowlers comparison test of Alcohol and the 50/50 mix of Simple Green & Alcohol as bowling ball cleaners.

Synopsis:
As long as you use a higher percentage one, Alcohol did okay as a surface ball cleaner. It doesn't deep clean the pore's and if you have a heavy belt mark it might need some extra rubbing to remove it.

The 50/50 mix surprisingly left quite a bit of residual grime on the ball.

[Aslan]

I don't believe isopropyl alcohol or Simple Green are approved cleaners by the USBC. Am I wrong? I didn't see either on the approved list.

What I'd like to see is a comparison of a homemade mixture and some of the approved, more costly cleaners like that purple stuff most pro shops sell.

I found similar results to this video...straight alcohol does seem to clean better and leave less residue and leave the ball more 'tacky'. However, as someone with a chemistry background, I'd be concerned that continual use of a straight alcohol could damage the ball over time.

It's the "Catch 22" of bowling ball maintenance: The more effective the method, the more damage you can do to the ball. Heating a ball to remove oil from the pores...is great...unless you overdue it. Cleaning the ball with harsh alcohols...works great...but over time could damage the overstock.

ETA: I actually use a 50/50 mix of simple green concentrate and either isopropyl alcohol or ethanol or a mix of ethanol and isopropyl alcohol myself.

[vdubtx]

Yes, alcohol and simple green are on approved list. Separately, but not listed as approved as a mixture of the 2 together.

Look on page 6 here - LINK

[bowl1820]

I don't believe isopropyl alcohol or Simple Green are approved cleaners by the USBC. Am I wrong? I didn't see either on the approved list.

As vdubtx stated they are approved ( I mentioned that in the warning in the video), they are listed under "COMMERCIAL PRODUCTS APPROVED AT ANYTIME"

What I'd like to see is a comparison of a homemade mixture and some of the approved, more costly cleaners like that purple stuff most pro shops sell.

that's simple enough just look at the results on my first video where I tested That Purple Stuff and some other and compare it to this one. I used the same procedure in both.

I found similar results to this video...straight alcohol does seem to clean better and leave less residue and leave the ball more 'tacky'. However, as someone with a chemistry background, I'd be concerned that continual use of a straight alcohol could damage the ball over time.

Those worries have been mentioned many, many times over the years and no documented evidence has ever appeared to show damage caused by cleaning with alcohol as the actual cause. It's unlikely that it would cause any damage, the alcohol doesn't stay on the cover long enough.

It's the "Catch 22" of bowling ball maintenance: The more effective the method, the more damage you can do to the ball.

That's not necessarily true, Just because something is more effective. Doesn't automatically mean it will damage a ball.

Damage comes more from using the wrong products and/or using them improperly.

The biggest risk that comes from DIY cleaners, is people mixing together chemicals and cleaners that they shouldn't. It's far too easy accidentally create harmful fumes/gasses or a poisonous substance that could be absorbed through the skin.

If anyone is worried about damaging equipment, they should stick to products that are made for ball cleaning.

[billf]

Interesting. I've used the Simple Green and alcohol mix for years and so far haven't had any issues with it not removing any of the belt marks or dirt. Of course since I bought my spinner a few years ago my in maintenance routine has slacked at the lanes.

[Aslan]

Those worries have been mentioned many, many times over the years and no documented evidence has ever appeared to show damage caused by cleaning with alcohol as the actual cause. It's unlikely that it would cause any damage, the alcohol doesn't stay on the cover long enough.

That's not necessarily true, Just because something is more effective. Doesn't automatically mean it will damage a ball.

What I was getting at is that you can really do a great cleaning and d-oiling job by putting you ball in an oven for 45 minutes at 350 degrees...then wiping (what's left of it) with straight MEK paint stripper. Granted, I would highly NOT recommend doing that.

Resin and polymer chemistry is fairly stable...but to de-stabilize it...you would use a combination of heat and solvents/alcohols. The higher the heat...the more effective at getting oil out of the pores...and the more likely you are to permanently damage the ball. Same thing with alcohols and solvents. The stronger the alcohol/solvent...the more concentrated...the more effective it'll be...but it could damage the ball. Alcohol less so than solvents; for sure.

That's why I always at least take into account the manufacturer's recommendations. I may alter their advice...use my own methods...because they have a built in bias ($$$). They recommend frequent $45 de-oiling using their fancy de-oiler machine...and frequent cleaning with their $8 bottle of soapy/alcohol cleaner....and ball resurfacing every 45 games or so. That ensures a good $50/month in revenue for ball maintenance at the pro shops. Most savy folks (like you Mr. 1820) have found that there are viable alternatives...homemade ball de-oilers....homemade soapy/alcohol cleaners....doing your own surface adjustments with your own ball spinner, etc...

That's why I've never used the dishwasher cleaning method. I've used a bathtub with really hot, soapy water...and it does okay. But, I'd be worried that the dishwasher would be too hot for too long...too close to comfort for my tastes. Same thing with an oven. All it takes is a couple centimeters of that dial turning too far...and now your ball is poo.

But I think, based on your video, I'm going to up the alcohol concentration in my next mixture...maybe 60/40 or 70/30.

[bowl1820]

What I was getting at is that you can really do a great cleaning and d-oiling job by putting you ball in an oven for 45 minutes at 350 degrees...then wiping (what's left of it) with straight MEK paint stripper. Granted, I would highly NOT recommend doing that.

Thus why I said "Damage comes more from using the wrong products and/or using them improperly." which is what you just described there.