How to compare bowling balls?

[NewToBowling]

Ok, so bowlingball.com has a great comparison feature.

But how do we use all these numbers to make an informed decision.

See this example:


My ball is the Ebonite Cyclone. Just put up four other balls. Bad Intentions because it is a very aggressive ball (from what I have read). And three other balls which I believe are logical "next step" balls from the Cyclone.

Perfect scale is supposedly the bowlingball.com's hook rating.

I have read up on RG and Differential. So higher RG number means core is weighted more towards cover and lower RG is vice-versa. Differential is basically the how wide the RG and flare potential is?

Looking at this chart the RG numbers are pretty close all within .07 of each other. Differential the same except for the IQ Tour Fusion

I noticed some are reactive resin vs hybridy coverstocks. And some have rougher factory finish than others.

I'm guessing these all have a factor in choosing a ball.

There are a lot of technical bowling lingo out there that is new to me. Just wondering how these numbers play into that:

• Hocky stick arc
• Banana arc
• Throws long/hard/short?
• High back-end reaction

I was looking for another ball (probably just for the sake of having another ball). Just something with more bite (some would say backend bite)

[jab5325]

I have to warn you.....the Bad Intentions is an awesome ball.....but for your situation, it's probably not the best route to go.

Jumping from Cyclone to BI would be like going from a minivan to a Corvette. The other balls listed are great products.

[NewToBowling]

I have to warn you.....the Bad Intentions is an awesome ball.....but for your situation, it's probably not the best route to go.

Jumping from Cyclone to BI would be like going from a minivan to a Corvette. The other balls listed are great products.

I know. I just threw that in as a comparison on why it is considered so much more aggressive.

[Amyers]

Welcome to one of the most complicated things in bowling. Trying to deduce a bowling balls potential reaction shape and oil handling capabilities from the numbers is very difficult if not impossible. I have a lot of arguments with people on here about this very thing. The only way to truly know what a ball is going to do for you is to drill it up and throw it. Nice but it gets expensive. A close second is if you can find people who have similar styles to you and watch them throw the ball. Only works if there are people with similar styles who throw equipment your interested in. Some things that don't really work watching most videos most of these are shot with guys who have higher ball speed and higher revs than most of us have makes it pretty useless.

The RG numbers will tell you approximately how far down the lane the ball will go before starting to hook. Higher numbers longer lower numbers shorter. This is also affected by type of cover stock pearls tend to go longer solids shorter, surface prep polished balls and balls with less surface (ie. higher number) tend to go longer than balls with lower surface grits. This is where it gets hard you can take a ball with a very low RG say a Storm Optimus put a polished pearl cover stock on it and goes much longer than you would expect from the RG number. So it's very important to understand not only the core but the cover stock and surface of the ball you are looking at.

Don't put to much stock in arbitrary ratings like the perfect scale or other "hook" ratings they are highly arbitrary and more opinion than fact.

The differential tells you how much the ball will flare. More flare = more hook potential. Notice I said potential if you don't have the ability to generate the revs to make the ball turn flare doesn't matter a more aggressive ball does not always equal more hook. For every upside their is a downside the more flare the ball produces the quicker it burns up energy also so super high flaring balls are more likely to burn up for lower speed lower revs bowlers in my opinion.

The things there are no numbers for are really important:

There is no standardized number for cover stock strength. Some manufactures are easier than others Storm uses a lot of the same 2 or three cover stocks on their balls so if you see someone bowling with a ball with that cover can give you and idea takes a little research to find out others do this also Brunswick uses a lot of the same covers on different pieces. Some companies seem to have a different cover on every ball. Motiv seems that way to me.

There is no standard way to determine oil handling ability. Basically you just have to take the manufactures word for how a ball handles oil. Balls with more surface tend to work better in heavier oil.

Just my two cents with what you are looking at go with the Asylum or the IQ Fusion both are great balls. The Asylum (I own one) will handle just a little more oil than the Fusion ( I bowl with three teammates that use it) and hook a little sooner and a little more arc than the fusion you can easily add additional surface to the asylum to get it to handle more oil. The Fusion has a little more backend hook and creates a little more angle. The biggest differences between them the Fusion is probably the better house shot ball but if you bowl any tournaments where they have more oil the Asylum can be scuffed with a pad quickly to add surface and be great but still ok on a house shot you can't do that as easily with the fusion. We probably have ten people throwing fusions in out house most people really like it. The asylum is a little more condition specific but still a great ball

The wrecker is in my opinion too much like your cyclone maybe a little longer maybe slightly more aggressive not much. The Bad Intentions is too big a step between your Cyclone. I would get the Asylum or Fusion then if you still feel you need something above them look into a BI or something similar.

[NewToBowling]

Thanks for the long explanation. Helps me understand a bit more now.

My only reservations on Storm balls are the smells they infuse them with. Not a big fan of that. Does the smell eventually go away or is it "embedded" into the ball and there forever.

I know Storm and Roto Grip are same company but I don't think Roto Grip balls have the scent

[Perrin]

A close second is if you can find people who have similar styles to you and watch them throw the ball. Only works if there are people with similar styles who throw equipment your interested in. Some things that don't really work watching most videos most of these are shot with guys who have higher ball speed and higher revs than most of us have makes it pretty useless.

I like Laneside reviews for this reason. they have 2-3 people throw each ball so you can see the difference.


I wish bowling ball companies would provide cover-stock specs like they do for Core specs.

[Amyers]

Thanks for the long explanation. Helps me understand a bit more now.

My only reservations on Storm balls are the smells they infuse them with. Not a big fan of that. Does the smell eventually go away or is it "embedded" into the ball and there forever.

I know Storm and Roto Grip are same company but I don't think Roto Grip balls have the scent

No smell on Rotogrip balls. I have a Virtual Gravity very little smell my wife's Tropical breeze was not over powering but you could really smell it when you first opened the bag has toned down some over the last year. I did bowl with 4 of the fusions on the same lane the other day you could smell the blueberry when you walked to the ball return. Unless you just really hate the smell I've never had one bother me.

[RobLV1]

There are only four elements that determine how a particular ball will react on the lane that are not directly related to the style of the bowler. They are: Core, Layout, Cover Material, and Surface.

Core:

Most reactive bowling balls today have either symmetrical or asymmetrical cores. Symmetrical cores are the same all the way around like a light bulb. Asymmetrical cores are not the same all the way around. Symmetrical cores tend to react smoother than asymmetrical cores, while asymmetrical cores show a more dynamic reaction. Most beginning bowlers should avoid asymmetrical cores as they tend to magnify inconsistencies in the release. The two numbers most often associated with cores are the low RG (radius of gyration), and the Differential (difference between the low RG which is listed, and the high rg which usually is not listed). The useable range of low RG's is from about 2.46 (the lowest allowed by the USBC) to about 2.60, so even though the RG's listed seem to be very close, the difference is actually very large. The lower the RG, the sooner the ball rolls. The higher the RG, the later it rolls. While this is technically different from saying "when it hooks," the idea is the same: the higher the RG, the easier it is to get the ball down the lane without losing energy. The differential is an idicator of the transition from the bowlers PAP and the ball's preferred spin axis. A higher differential does produce more flare; a lot for high rev players and a little for low rev players. Differential does not create more hook, it creates the potential for more hook.

Layout: The layout is nothing more than how the core is positioned within the ball. The positioning of the core will change the actual RG and Differential numbers (the numbers listed are for undrilled balls), and will dictate the shape of the reaction.

Cover Material: There are three types of reactive resin cover materials: solid, pearl, and hybrid. Solid materials are better for finding friction in the oil, but they do not reactive aggressively when they find friction. Pearl materials slide more in the oil, and react more violently to friction, and hybrid materials give you the best (and the worst) of both world. There is no way to measure the relative strengths of cover materials, though price point is often a good indication: higher priced balls usually feature strong cover materials.

Surface: The surface of a bowling ball is the only thing that can be easily changed by the bowler once a ball has been drilled. The OOB (out of box) finish is nothing more than the best guess by the manufacturer's marketing department as to what surface most target consumers will want. There is nothing sacred about the OOB finish. Try several surfaces until you find the one that is right for you.

That's all there is to it. Understand these four elements, and you will quickly realize that there is no magic involved in bowling balls, regardless of how much the manufacturers and retailers (internet and otherwise) want you to believe there is.

[NewToBowling]

Yeah, it seems like every mfg has multiple balls that are pretty much duplicates of each other. And releasing balls every year seems to be overkill. Just something they can announce as NEW AND IMPROVED although in one years time not much has changed technology wise.

[RobLV1]

Yeah, it seems like every mfg has multiple balls that are pretty much duplicates of each other. And releasing balls every year seems to be overkill. Just something they can announce as NEW AND IMPROVED although in one years time not much has changed technology wise.

You are missing the point. No manufacturer has balls in its line that are duplicates. If you look, for instance, at the Storm IQ Tour Line, you will find the original IQ Tour that was a solid, the IQ Tour Pearl, the IQ Tour Fusion that is a hybrid, and now the IQ Tour Nano which is the IQ Tour core with a much more aggressive cover material. Based on the short lifespan of most modern reactive balls, releasing balls is not overkill, it is a necessity. While techological advances are rarely major in scope, they do come about every year. Learn the basics so that you can make informed decisions.