View Full Version : The Game - Basics
Pinboy
05-23-2008, 09:25 PM
The bowlinglane
The bowling lane is normally divided into five different sections. These sections are the players area, the approach, the lane, the gutter and the pins.
The players area is the space where a player waits on his turn to bowl. To throw your ball you need to step onto the approach, this is the runway to the lane where you can pick up momentum for delivery of the bowling ball. You need special bowling shoes with slide soles before you can step onto the approach. On the approach you can find different points, called 'dots', which are orientation points for the player on the approach. At the end of the approach you see a thick black line, called the foul line, and it marks the separation between the approach and the lane. You are not allowed to cross this line, else the throw is discarded due to a foul and you will see an 'F' on the screen.
The lane is made out of wood or synthetics and consists out of 39 boards. The lane has a length of 60 feet (about 18 meters), measured from the foul line to the head-pin. It consists out of different sections, which differ in smoothness from each other, so you can create hook. You can create hook because of the dressing on the lane. This usually is a fine layer of mineral based oil, which is also used as protection of the lane against any damage. The dressing is brought onto the lane with the help of a so called lane conditioner, which first strips (cleans) old dressing of the lane and then sprays a new dressing onto the lane. If a lane has a lot of dressing on it, it is called a fast lane. if the lane has little dressing on it, the lane is called a dry lane.
You can find all kinds of orientation points on the lane, namely the 'dots' and the 'arrows'. The 'dots' are the points at the beginning of the lane and usually there are eight of them. The 'arrows' can be found at about 12 feet on the lane and there are seven of them. On both sides of the lane you see a gutter, in which the ball falls if you don't keep it on the lane. The gutter transports the ball to the back of the lane without hitting a pin and the ball will then be brought back to the ball return for the next turn.
But the idea of bowling is to keep the ball on the lane, so that you can hit some pins. In total there are ten pins standing at the end of the lane which are set up in the shape of a triangle. If a right-handed bowler hits the head-pin on the right side, you have thrown your ball in the 'pocket'. Else if the bowler has hit the left side of the head-pin, he has hit the 'brooklyn'. This is vice versa for a left-handed bowler. After you have thrown your ball the rack will come down and the fallen pins are cleaned up. Until the rack goes up again you need to wait before you can throw another ball.
Pinboy
05-23-2008, 09:28 PM
Bowlingballs can be made out of different materials: polyester, urethane, reactive resin or particle. Most sport bowlers use a reactive or particle bowling ball, while they use a polyester ball as an spare ball. You don't see urethane balls very often anymore, mainly because a reactive or particle bowling ball is a lot easier to bowl with. With a urethane ball you need give it more lift to let it hook. If the lanes are very dry you will see some players grab their urethane ball to bowl with it though.
Bowling balls come in different weight, from 6 lbs up to 16 lbs. It used to be that how heavier the ball was, the better it was. If the ball was heavy, the chance on deflection off the pins was smaller. Due to the arrival of reactive resin, it doesn't really matter anymore if you bowl with a 16, a 15 or even a 14 pound bowling ball. The deflection has become a lot less than it used to be with urethane balls. When you bowl, you should take a ball which is just heavy enough so that you can hold it with a stretched arm for 5 seconds without getting tired.
Inside a bowling ball you find the weight-block and this is a key factor in the amount of action and hook of a bowling ball. In a ball that should go straight you will see an ordinary round weight-block. If your bowling ball need to have more action and hook more, there is a more sophisticated weight-block in the bowling ball which makes sure that the ball has the most impact on the pins.
Usually there are three holes in a bowling ball, two for your fingers (your middle finger and ring finger) and one hole for your thumb. You can put your fingers in the bowling ball in two different ways, namely conventional and finger-tip. With conventional both your fingers go into the bowling ball almost entirely, while with finger-tip only the first part of your fingers go into the ball. The advantage of finger-tip over conventional is that with finger-tip you can lift the bowling ball much better, which creates more action and hook on the bowling ball.
Conventional (l)
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/4364/conventionaldm3.png
and finger-tip (r)
http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/2738/fingertipfo8.png
Sometimes you also will see a fourth, non-gripping, hole in the bowling ball. This is usually the balance hole, which makes sure that the ball drilling will come back into ABC regulations. The balance hole can also be used to increase or decrease a ball's reaction and to fine tune a more subtle change in ball reaction.
Pinboy
05-23-2008, 09:30 PM
A bowler will usually use an approach to create momentum for delivery of the bowling ball. In this way he will create speed on the bowling ball without really using his muscles, except if you are a cranker. He just creates speed with is arm swing during his approach on the runway.
There are many different sorts of approaches, varying from one step up to six or even more steps. The four-step approach is the most used approach among bowlers, although five steps are also popular. With a four-step approach, the first step is the 'push away'. Here you step forward with your starting foot (right if you are right-handed, for left-handed vice versa) and at the same time you will push the bowling ball forward. During the second step, sometimes referred by as the 'prozone', you let your ball swing backward while you are moving your other foot forward (left for right-handers, right for left-handers). The third step is the 'pivot step'. During this step the ball is still swinging backwards until your swing reaches its highest point. Meanwhile you are moving your other foot forward again, just like you are walking down the street. The fourth and final step is the 'slide'. Here your swing must be in a forward motion and also you must slide with your foot towards the foul line. At the end of this step you must have released the bowling ball onto the lane and do a 'follow-through' right after you have released the ball. This will help you aim better by letting your arm swing further into the direction you are aiming.
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/4899/approachds6.png
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/3554/approach1wu9.png
Pinboy
05-23-2008, 09:31 PM
With a five-step approach there is a step added at the beginning. This is a very small step, called the 'power step'. You just take a very small step with your 'new' starting foot (left for right-handers, right for left-handers). This step has the function to get the bowler easier into motion. After the power step you will do the same steps as in a four-step approach.
An important aspect of the approach is the timing. This is the relationship between your arrival at the approach and your release. You can have an early, a normal and a late timing. At an early timing you release the bowling ball at the beginning of the slide. At a normal timing the bowler will release the ball during his slide. At a late timing you release your ball almost at the end of your slide or even after your slide is over. Strokers will tend more towards an normal/early timing, while crankers will tend more towards a late timing
Pinboy
05-23-2008, 09:31 PM
One game at bowling consists out of a maximum of 12 frames. The first 10 frames are normal frames, whereas the last two frames are bonus frames which can be earned in the 10th frame. In a frame you get two chances to bowl over all ten pins. When you do this in one try, you have bowled a strike. If you need two turns to bowl over the pins, you have got a spare. When you don't bowl over all pins in two turns, it is called a miss.
A strike is marked with a 'X'. This counts as ten points plus the result of the next two turns. So if you strike in the first frame (see Mikey's game in the example below) and in the next frame you bowl 7 and 1, you will get 18 points in the first frame. Ten for the strike plus 7 and 1 for the next two turns. Frame two will get a score of 18 (from the first frame) plus 8, which makes 26 points.
A spare is marked with a '/'. This counts as ten points plus the result of the next turn. So if we look at the example again, we see that Janet had bowled a 2 spare in the second frame. In the next turn she bowled a one. So her score in frame two became 9 (from the first frame) plus 10 from the spare plus one (the next turn), which made 20. In the next frame she bowled a miss, so the score was now 23. Lee bowled two misses, so he earned no bonus.
Pinboy
05-23-2008, 10:30 PM
http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/496/scorefz0.png
As mentioned earlier, you can earn two bonus frames in frame 10. If you bowl a strike you will get two bonus turns, if you bowl another strike in frame 11 you may bowl your last turn in frame 12. So this game will consist out of 12 frames. If you don't bowl a strike in frame 11 or you bowl a spare in frame 10, the game will consist out of 11 frames. If you bowl a miss in frame 10, you won't get bonus frames and the game will consist out of 10 frames of course.
While you can bowl a strike or a spare, you can also bowl a split. A split is combination of pins in which the headpin is down and the remaining pins have one or more intermediate pins down immediately ahead or behind them. This is usually marked with a 'S', another colour or with reversed video. There are 459 different sort of splits, of which the 7-10 combination is one of the difficult ones to spare.
abhinav2492
05-24-2008, 01:31 AM
Frame
There are ten frames in one game. You have two chances to knock down the ten pins in each frame (see the explanations for strike and spare). Note that the tenth frame rewards you with a final bonus ball if you convert your spare (or make two strikes). You can thus throw nine strikes in the first nine frames and, if you get another two in the tenth, the bonus ball means the most strikes you can have in one game is twelve. This is called a perfect game..
abhinav2492
05-24-2008, 01:32 AM
Spare
Getting all ten pins down with one ball is not as easy as it seems! So, if you leave one or more pins standing after your first delivery, you get a second chance to knock all the pins down, this is your "spare" shot. If you knock all remaining pins down on the second shot you have made your spare. A spare is marked on the scoresheet with a "/". It takes skill to consistently make spares and the scoring system rewards you by adding in the pins from the next ball into the current frame. See also split.
Strike
Click to watch a video of a strikeWhen the bowler knocks down all ten pins with the first delivery of the ball it is called a strike. Clearly your score goes up by ten, but like a spare, you get a bonus - your next two deliveries are added to the score. Stringing strikes together will raise your score dramatically (See turkey). Marked on the scoresheet with an "X".
abhinav2492
05-24-2008, 01:35 AM
The equipment needed for ten pin bowling:
· Ten bowling pins – Bowling pins are about 4.75 inches wide at the widest point and 15 inches tall. They weigh between 3 pounds 4 ounces and 3 pounds 10 ounces.
· Bowling ball – bowling balls are made from a variety of materials, from rubber to plastic to reactive resin to a combination of these materials, as well as other materials. Most bowling balls used in ten pin bowling have 3 holes drilled into them, one each for the thumb, middle, and ring finger. Of course, there is no regulation stating that a bowling ball cannot have up to five holes drilled into it, one for each finger. Bowling balls cannot weigh more than 16 pounds.
abhinav2492
05-24-2008, 01:36 AM
Lane – In ten pin bowling, a bowling lane is 60 feet from the head pin to the foul line. The width of the lane is 3.5 feet.
· Gutters – Once the ball is in the gutter, there is no chance you are going to be able to hit any pins down. The gutters allow the ball to roll safety to the end and then to begin its journey back on the ball return. Some bowling alleys have “bumpers” that can be blown up and placed in the gutters, making it impossible to get a gutter ball. These are great for children to learn with.
abhinav2492
05-24-2008, 05:09 AM
· Double – What it is called when a bowler gets two strikes in a row.
· Turkey – Three consecutive strikes.
· Four-bagger – Four consecutive strikes.
abhinav2492
05-24-2008, 05:10 AM
Approach - You must have a smooth and timed approach. Too quick to the line and the ball trails causing you to foul or drop the ball before you are ready to release. Too slow on the approach and the ball can jerk out of your hand in an uncontrolled release and you have lost control over the path of the ball down the lane.
Swing - The timing of the swing of your arm must be in relation to the approach. If your swing is not in time with your approach the entire process becomes very cumbersome. Too far back on your swing and the ball may roll uncontrollably down the lane. Not far enough back on your swing and there is no power in the ball and it leaves pins standing.
Knowledge of the lane conditions - Is the lane dry or oily? Dry lanes can cause your ball to grip the lane more quickly and put more curve on the roll than you want. Consequently, an oily lane can keep your ball from curving enough.
abhinav2492
05-24-2008, 08:21 AM
Once you find the right shoe size and a bowling ball that is the correct weight for you, head down to the lane to practice. If possible, find a lane that is away from other bowlers so you won't be distracted.
Some lucky bowlers can get spares or even strikes with little or no skill, but that is not the norm. Don't get discouraged when you first start bowling if you only hit a few pins or send your ball to the gutter. This is absolutely normal. If you concentrate on what you are doing and listen to your instructor, your game will get better.
Your bowling ball is simply a sphere with holes in it. You put your middle finger and your ring finger into the holes to get a grip on the ball before releasing it toward the pins.
:)
abhinav2492
05-24-2008, 08:23 AM
The Conventional Grip has you putting your fingers into the holes up to the second joint.
Finger Tip Grip, you insert your fingers just until the first joint.
Sarge-Easter Grip, where you put both fingers in one hole, but this one is just for experienced bowlers.
abhinav2492
05-24-2008, 08:40 AM
1. Stretch it out
Before starting to bowl, make sure to do warm up exercises for your neck and shoulders. Hold each stretch for about eight seconds in order to properly work your muscles.
2. Get ready to sweat
Your bowling warm up should make you sweat a little. One of the benefits to warming up before you play is an elevation in your body temperature. Once your body is warmed up, it won't need to release additional heat as you get more active during the game.
3. Include your arms in your stretch
Bowling uses your flexors and extenders, so they should be nice and warmed up before you being playing. This gets your arms ready for the additional weight of the ball and the strain bowling puts on your arm.
4. Remember to breath
Deep breathing is a vital part of your warm up session. Breath in deeply, hold it for about six counts, and then breath out. Repeat. This type of breathing gets your lungs in shape so you have more stamina.
5. Never stretch without warming up
Be sure to do some warm up exercises before you start your regular bowling warm up routine. And if you ever feel pain while stretching, stop immediately.
If you keep these warm up tips in mind whenever you get ready to bowl, you can be sure to remain comfortable and injury free during your bowling game.
abhinav2492
05-24-2008, 08:43 AM
Mistake #1: Trying to hook a house ball Attempting to hook that dull looking house ball could be risky, not only to your score but to your wrist as well. Not only will a house ball not hook -- and it's not meant to -- but attempting to throw one could lead to bad technique. Do this over and over and you've just built a habit and believe me habits are incredibly hard to break.
Mistake #2: Trying to throw the ball too hard I know you love showing your manly strength off in front of the women, but what are they going to think when they look up at the screen and see a 46 in the 9th frame? Exactly, so slow it down a bit. A slower ball is a more controlled ball, and a more controlled ball is a strike.
Mistake #3: Throwing a ball that is too heavy or light Using a ball that is to heavy or light can result in unpleasant results and can also lead to bad technique. If your ball is to heavy, you'll likely strain to throw it. If your ball is to light, you won't get enough of a challenge and you'll end up throwing sloppy, uncontrolled balls with terrible technique. I think it's incredibly important to choose the correct weight for your bowling ball and if you're in need of tips for how to do so, please visit my other article here entitled: Tips For Bowling - How To Choose A Bowling Ball.
abhinav2492
05-24-2008, 08:44 AM
1. Promotes good muscle exercises
Merely walking along the lane, while attempting to make a strike or a spare, is enough to exercise the muscles in your legs. It resembles that of the "walking exercise" that most health buffs do; the only difference is that there is more weight involved. This is because in bowling, your hands are holding the bowling ball.
Consequently, as you swing around to hit the pins, the flexing and stretching provides adequate exercise for your tendons, joints, ligaments, and muscles in the arms.
2. Fat burning
As your muscles flex, turn, and twist in every swinging motion that you make while playing bowling, these moves can actually promote the burning of some accumulated body fat.
3. Builds friendships
One of the health benefits that can be derived in bowling is based on the kind of relationship that is being built with your friends or family. As some psychologists contend, building social relationships can actually promote better performance of the heart muscles. Emotional stress can shorten the lifespan of an average person.
abhinav2492
05-25-2008, 08:13 AM
1. It is recommended that a bowler have his own ball and pair of bowling shoes, especially if he plans to join a bowling league. Having your own equipment will help a player become effective in practicing bowling in the lanes because the bowler does not need to adjust to different balls and shoes each time he bowls.
2. If the bowler does not plan to join a league but just plays as his leisure activity, he may not want to buy his own equipment since he can use rented shoes and balls from the alley. This will allow him to be comfortable with the game and he will be able to master the strategies and moves if he uses the correct equipment.
3. He must also consider the weight of the ball. How much the ball weighs can affect a player's balance and will have a great impact on the performance. :)
abhinav2492
05-25-2008, 08:14 AM
. He must also consider the weight of the ball. How much the ball weighs can affect a player's balance and will have a great impact on the performance.
1. It is important that the bowler determine the condition of the lanes. He should know whether the lanes are too oily or dry so that he can adjust the execution of his moves. He must decide how to position himself in the lanes so he will know how the ball will roll in the lane and hit the pins.
2. The player should try all techniques and strategies when playing. This will help him decide which strategy worked best for him and which ones were not effective. He can then narrow down his options to the strategies that helped him have the best performance.
3. The most important part of mastering the skills is by consistent practice. With practice one is able to master the different strategies in bowling. The bowler should strive to master all of the techniques by performing them frequently. Practicing the techniques and moves also allows the player to assess his mistakes, strong points and weak points in playing the game.
Mastering the skills in bowling is not a difficult task but requires discipline and perseverance to become a master of the game. It may take weeks and/or months to master the skills but what is important is how much the player enjoys the game.
abhinav2492
05-25-2008, 08:26 AM
The Arcing layout - this layout is what I call the 90 degree layout or Ebonites 90 degree layout it is used on most house shots. Or if the bowler wants to play the bowling lane at the track area or between the 13 and 8 board at the arrows. This layout has the widest range in usefulness. And I recommend it for 90% of house shots and bowlers that only bowl on a house shot. Or in other words the once a week or twice a week average bowler. In my. The layout - When the ball is drilled put the pin 4.5 inches from your positive axis point (pap) or under your ring finger. On a symmetrical ball the center of gravity (cg) should be in line with the pin angling toward your thumb. On an asymmetrical ball the mass bias should be in line with the pin and directly underneath your thumb. This is the Ebonite's 90% layout.
abhinav2492
05-25-2008, 08:28 AM
Rule of thumb.
1. Track area or medium lane conditions. = arcing 90% of house bowlers will use this ball.
2. Outside and oilier lane conditions. = early roll.
3. Inside or dryer lane conditions = flip ball or stacked
abhinav2492
05-25-2008, 08:30 AM
1. The Early Rolling Layout. - this layout is used on oily or long oil patterns or carry down. Also used when the bowler wants to play the lanes from 7 boards out or I should say the lane conditions dictate this. The type of bowling ball is usually solid reactive resin or particle. This layout can also be used to break down a shot on a sport pattern I like to use the word break open rather than. Break down cause that's what you are trying to do. The layout pin under the ring finger again or 4.5 away from your pap. And the mass or the cg angled 35 to 65 degrees. The angle is determined by the amount or early roll you want I prefer mine at about 35 degrees which is about 2 inches off the thumb ratter than 3 inches. In other words 3 inches = 45degrees and 35 degrees = 2 inches. Another rule of thumb the close the mass is to the pap the earlier the roll. Average once or twice a week bowlers will rarely ever need this layout unless the bowler is bowling in a center that has slick lane conditions and the shot is more outside.
2. The Flip Layout. - this layout is just what it says it is a flipping ball. This layout is used for playing the lanes more inside at about the 14 boards in at the arrows with a open line. This layout is a used to stand left and give it room. It is use when the lane conditions have really dry backends and when the shot is really trashed late night in pot games is when I used this ball. A long and strong ball in other words or now I know that lots of people think this is an all around ball but its is really not used that much especially if you always bowl on fresh. Ok the layout this layout is the stacked layout it is pin 4.5 from pap and the cg or mass directly under it in a vertical line the amount of length is determined by how high above the fingers the pin is. In other word the higher the pin the longer the ball move before the flip or break. The surface is usually a pearl or a shiner solid reactive bowling ball.
Caution - Now if you use this on oil it will slide to far and never flip. So match the ball to the lane condition. Average once or twice a week bowlers will rarely ever need this layout unless the bowler is bowling in a center that has very dry lane conditions or the shot is more inside.
abhinav2492
05-25-2008, 08:33 AM
By resurfacing your ball, you can gain greater control over it, and your score. However, before you rush off and start sanding, there are a few points to take into consideration before changing your ball, as what's done can usually not be undone!
Consider the following:
- How skilled am I to begin with? If you're still relying more on luck than technique to knock the pins down, resurfacing your ball probably won't make a difference.
- What are the conditions of the lanes where I usually bowl? Make sure that if you think a lane is too fast, that it really is fast and that you're not just having a problem bowling on the lane's particular oil pattern. If everyone seems to be having the same problem, then consider resurfacing your ball. By dulling the surface, your ball will grip the lane better, giving you greater control.
- Does your ball seem to lose all its steam at the end of the lane? If so, a shinier surface on your ball will help it conserve its energy in the beginning of the throw, saving it's power to knock the pins down. Use the ball polisher at your bowling alley to smooth and shine its surface.
- What do I want to accomplish? That is the single most important question to answer before proceeding. Many bowlers have ruined perfectly good balls by dulling the surface improperly. You may want to resurface your different balls in different ways to cover all possible bowling conditions.
abhinav2492
05-25-2008, 08:36 AM
Bowling balls can be dulled using very fine-grained sandpaper. It is imperative that the ball is rotated consistently as it is sanded, or else you risk ruining your ball. A bowling ball is a perfect sphere. If you accidentally take off too much of the surface in one spot, it can't be put back on! Your ball will be unbalanced, and as a result, won't go where you want it.
There is an alternative to doing it yourself. Your local pro shop will have a machine that can resurface your ball. Because the machine spins the ball evenly as it sands, there is no risk of ruining the ball by sanding too hard in one spot. It's always best to go slowly. By changing the surface of the ball gradually, you can gauge the effectiveness of the changes.
abhinav2492
05-25-2008, 08:38 AM
How to start a basic arsenal of bowling balls. This is not for the beginner. It's for the person who already has some knowledge of the game and needs some advice as to what bowling balls he should have available in his bag. (his arsenal) Here is my best shot for a starting arsenal. Just about any house bowler needs to have 4 bowling balls with different cover stocks and they should all be drilled the same way. The surface and balance is the key,
THE 4 BOWLING BALL ARSENAL
The Surface:
1. A particle bowling ball to use on longer oil that doesn't have much backend. (a Brunswick Mammoth or a Hammer Hawg If you can find one) Just make sure its solid particle.
2. A solid reactive bowling ball is used on a medium oily lane condition and medium long length that has some back end. (a Columbia Resugence or a Ebonite Game Breaker)
3. A pearlized bowling ball for fresh back ends or late night after the shot is broke down. (A Hammer Blue Vibe or a hammer black widow pearl)
4. A plastic ball to use as a spare ball, mainly for the 10 pin. Doesn't need to be expensive. (A Brunswick Tone or a Ebonite Maxim)
The Balance:
1. Try to get bowling balls with 2 to 3 inch pins, or 1 to 2 inch pins with about 3 oz. top weight. When the ball is drilled put the pin 4.5 inches from your positive axis point (pap) or under your ring finger.
2. On a symmetrical ball the center of gravity (cg) should be in line with the pin angling toward your thumb. On an asymmetrical ball the mass bias should be in line with the pin and directly underneath your thumb. This is the Ebonite's 90% layout.
Drill all Bowling Balls like this!
THIS IS YOUR STARTING ARSENAL!
I hope this helpful. It's basically just a place to start.
abhinav2492
05-25-2008, 09:01 AM
In general, one point is scored for each pin that is knocked over. So if a player bowls over three pins with the first shot, then six with the second, the player would receive a total of nine points for that frame. If a player knocks down 9 pins with the first shot, but misses with the second, the player would also score nine. When a player fails to knock down all ten pins after their second ball it is known as an open frame.
In the event that all ten pins are knocked over by a player in a single frame, bonuses are awarded.
A ten-pin bowling scoresheet showing how a strike is scoredStrike: When all ten pins are knocked down with the first ball (called a strike and typically rendered as an "X" on a scoresheet), a player is awarded ten points, plus a bonus of whatever is scored with the next two balls. In this way, the points scored for the two balls after the strike are counted twice.
Frame 1, ball 1: 10 pins (strike)
Frame 2, ball 1: 3 pins
Frame 2, ball 2: 6 pins
The total score from these throws is:
Frame one: 10 + (3 + 6)= 19
Frame two: 3 + 6 = 9
TOTAL = 28
abhinav2492
05-25-2008, 09:03 AM
Safety factors to consider in bowling concern the delivery and the release of the ball.
· Place your bowling ball on the ball return.
· Keep food and beverages out of the bowling area.
· Always wear bowling shoes in the pit area. NO STREET SHOES.
· Check your bowling shoes before attempting to bowl to make sure you did not pick
up water or other particles.
· When it is your turn to bowl, face the pins…pick up the ball with both hands…one
hand on each side of the ball…to avoid: (a)injury to hand and fingers, (b) strain on
the bowling hand, (c) wait until the ball has stopped rolling before picking it up.
· Only one person on the approach at any time.
abhinav2492
05-25-2008, 09:04 AM
· During the four step delivery, stand with your heels on the foul line, facing the
bowlers bench. Take 4 and ½ brisk steps forward. This is your starting position.
· Hold your ball slightly higher than waist high, with the ball parallel to your right
should (right-handed), left shoulder (left-handed)
· Use your free hand to support the weight of the ball
· Push the ball our with your first step (right handed use rt foot, left handed use lf foot)
It is very important to push the ball out, not up or down. This first step is the key to
good timing.
· The steps that you take should be a brisk pace but not fast.
· At the point of release the hand should be in a hand shake position, as you throw the
ball.
abhinav2492
05-25-2008, 09:06 AM
1. Straight ball: position thumb at the 12 o’clock position
2. Hook ball: position thumb at the 11 o’clock position
3. Curve ball: position thumb at the 9 o’clock position
abhinav2492
05-25-2008, 09:10 AM
Bowling Pin Types
The Winsom pin. This is a Asian made Brunswick pin. It was cheaper for them to ship Canadian Rock Maple to Asia and have them shipped back than to use US labor. This pin is the prototype for the Killer "B" pin. The Brunswick "Max". This is the current pin with the trademarked crown logo. The AMF Sumo pin. This is a novelty pin based on the very popular Sumo bowling ball.
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A rare AMF pin, violated Brunswick's crown logo trademark and was discontinued. The Brunswick "Flyer". This is one of Brunswick's first injection molded pins. Injection molding made the coating thicker than the original dipping process. The Brunswick mixer. This pin was the last in the series of plastic dipped pins for Brunswick.
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The Vulcan Vultex II. Vulcan was a competitor to both AMF and Brunswick. It is a surlyn coated injection molded pin. Vulcan was eventually bought by Brunswick. The Brunswick "B" Max. This is an early version of the Brunswick "Max" pin.. The Brunswick Killer "B".
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The Brunswick PBA gold pin. This 3lb 10oz pin is heavier than the normal pin. The pin pictured here has the "colored" PBA logo and can only be used in PBA tournament play. A similar pin with the black logo can be used in regular scratch and league play. The Brunswick WWF "The Rock" pin. The Brunswick PBA gold pin an souvenir autograph pin.
abhinav2492
05-25-2008, 09:47 AM
Five-pin bowling balls have no finger holes and are between 4.75 to 5 inches (12.1–12.7 cm) in diameter. They weigh between 3.25 and 3.625 pounds (1.47–1.64 kg). The smaller size and lighter weight of the balls allows bowlers to hold the ball in the palm of their hand when throwing.
abhinav2492
05-25-2008, 09:48 AM
The maximum regulation candlepin ball weight is 2 pounds 7 ounces (1.105 kg), and with the regulated pin weight being only slightly heavier at 2 pounds 8 ounces (1.134 kg) the candlepin sport could be said to pose a greater challenge to the player—due to the almost non-existent difference of the weight between the ball and one candlepin—than any of the other forms of bowling that use ten pins in them.
prudhvi
06-21-2008, 02:56 PM
thanks for the bowling basis these might help me to know and learn game faster.
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