POLISHED vs Matte

[MICHAEL]

I know what you have said Rob about polish, BUT in my case all, ALL my best games and series have been with Highly polished balls. I have tried here recently taking the polish off, and using my spinner to take several balls up to a 4000 surface.

RESULTS,,, not good in my case. NOt real bad, but not the energy that seems to be in the polished ball.

To me my Virtual Gravity Nano pearl, and IQ peal highly polished (almost look like marble, polished with my spinner four sides), works for ME. Another strange thing is one is symmetrical, while the other is Asymmetrical, but both Higly Polished in common!
Both have given me strong 700s and 300s! So in my case, the common denominator is POLISH!

It clears the heads great and darts into the pocket with lots of energy. All my 700's and 300s have been with higly polished balls.

I wonder what most of you out there find to be your best surface,,,, Polished, or Matte??? Now I am speaking house oil, not sports, what type of ball, POLISHED, or Matte works for you.

I am sold on polish,,, it has been VERY, VERY good to ICEMAN lol

[Doghouse Reilly]

"what type of ball, POLISHED, or Matte works for you."

Both, it all depends on what conditions I bowl on.

If a polished ball works on the condition you bowl on all the time, Then you use a polished ball.

Will a polished ball work at it's best on all conditions? No. the same can be said about a matte ball also.

If someone else is using a different surface than you, doe's that mean you have to change your surface or use the same surface they have? No

Looking at what surfaces others use, is like looking at other peoples layouts. Just because it works for them, doesn't mean it will work for you.


A thought

If you always bowl high scores with a polished ball, what do you blame when you have a bad night with that polished ball? Is it always the conditions, your release, the line everyone else is playing etc?

Could it ever be possibly the wrong surface?

[MICHAEL]

"what type of ball, POLISHED, or Matte works for you."

Both, it all depends on what conditions I bowl on.

If a polished ball works on the condition you bowl on all the time, Then you use a polished ball.

Will a polished ball work at it's best on all conditions? No. the same can be said about a matte ball also.

If someone else is using a different surface than you, doe's that mean you have to change your surface or use the same surface they have? No

Looking at what surfaces others use, is like looking at other peoples layouts. Just because it works for them, doesn't mean it will work for you.


I would have to say at 4 different bowling establishments, all with their house oil, High Polish Always works for ME! It works on dry, medium to dry, and oily lanes.

Remember talking HOUSE Pattern.

I am speaking for ME, when I say it works on all three conditions I mentioned above.

I was just curious if ON A HOUSE OIL STANDARD pattern, ( and I know they vary), what is you go to ball! Not sports patterns.

Yes surface is important, and I am using the out of box surface on my two favorate balls. V.G. nano peal, and IQ peal. I like that deadly aim ball, but I am not as consistant with it as I am the two mentioned! I need to explore different surfaces!!

I don't always, (((LIKE EVERYONE ELSE, LOL)))) bowl high scores! Even Mike White, and Aslan have their bad nights where no matter what they do it just doesn't seem to work!! I was that way Friday, until I pulled out my V.G. Nano Peal, HIGLY POLISHED ball at the beginning of the third game, and almost threw a 300! 7 strikes then a 10 pin, picked it up,,,, then strikes until the 10 frame left a 10 pin and MISSED THE DAMN THING!!!! GRRRRRRRR

I started out with the deadly aim,,, just couldn't get it to work, it had a 4000 surface fresh, with a coat of dull shine! Maybe I will try it without the dull shine Monday!

[Mike White]

I know what you have said Rob about polish, BUT in my case all, ALL my best games and series have been with Highly polished balls. I have tried here recently taking the polish off, and using my spinner to take several balls up to a 4000 surface.

RESULTS,,, not good in my case. NOt real bad, but not the energy that seems to be in the polished ball.

To me my Virtual Gravity Nano pearl, and IQ peal highly polished (almost look like marble, polished with my spinner four sides), works for ME. Another strange thing is one is symmetrical, while the other is Asymmetrical, but both Higly Polished in common!
Both have given me strong 700s and 300s! So in my case, the common denominator is POLISH!

It clears the heads great and darts into the pocket with lots of energy. All my 700's and 300s have been with higly polished balls.

I wonder what most of you out there find to be your best surface,,,, Polished, or Matte??? Now I am speaking house oil, not sports, what type of ball, POLISHED, or Matte works for you.

I am sold on polish,,, it has been VERY, VERY good to ICEMAN lol

The symmetrical ball is only symmetrical while undrilled.

Once you drill it, it's asymmetrical, with the new mass bias being located near the thumb hole.

If a balance hole is added, the mass bias will shift towards that hole.

If a symmetrical ball is drilled without a thumb hole, it can end up very close to symmetrical, but then a balance hole is recommended to generate significant asymmetry.

Surface preparation is very bowler, and oil pattern specific.

On a typical house condition, the last thing I need is a matte ball.

I'll find out soon, if I even need matte on sport patterns.

My bag(s) consist of:

White Dot.
99% of my spares shot with this
Lacks a little hitting power when used for strikes.

Mix (drilled with excess side weight, then balance hole to make legal)
Initially hooked a bit too much at home, so I incrementally increased balance hole, to the point where I removed ALL of the side weight.
Now I can used it for a game, maybe two, but it tends to end up nose diving the 3rd game.

Red Mix (drilled over label)
My go to ball at my home lanes, lasts all 3 games.

Tropical Breeze (drilled with the pin 1" from the PAP, for low flare, polished)
Hooks too much at home, but worked great in Laughlin, for the first game+.
Had it in the car, when I went to Foothill, but ultimately didn't need it.

Byte (polished)
Drilled it for Laughlin and Sports patterns, so far, never thrown.

Marvel-S (matte)
Drilled it for Laughlin and Sports patterns, so far, never thrown.

We went to Laughlin this weekend, and I arrived about 30 mins before the place went into Cosmic Bowling, so I didn't have time to get my stuff and bowl.

However there was a guy in my league (ex-PBA) practicing.

I watched him for about 5 shots, which told me plenty about how I would attack the lanes the next morning.

Who the hell schedules bowling sweepers at 9:00 am.

I was in bed asleep at 10 pm, up at 5 am, just so 9 am didn't feel so damn early.

[Amyers]

Iceman what are you using as your base for the polish? It matters the polish evens it out some but you still have the grooves from the original surface their is a difference between 2000 polished and 4000 polished. All of the balls you have mentioned are pearls have you tried a true solid? I'm just wondering I have always preferred pearls too. I've had trouble out of solids before but haven't tried one in a long time mainly not hitting as hard and burning up but I'm a lower speed guy I'm sure those guys who pitch at 20 mph don't have that problem

[MICHAEL]

Iceman what are you using as your base for the polish? It matters the polish evens it out some but you still have the grooves from the original surface their is a difference between 2000 polished and 4000 polished. All of the balls you have mentioned are pearls have you tried a true solid? I'm just wondering I have always preferred pearls too. I've had trouble out of solids before but haven't tried one in a long time mainly not hitting as hard and burning up but I'm a lower speed guy I'm sure those guys who pitch at 20 mph don't have that problem

Good point on the speed! I can throw light/slow, or fast! Many times when I think, that the oil is getting burned up, a fellow bowler will say, Ice,,, your speed is slowing down. Then I will focus on amoung other things adding more speed, and usually that does solve the problem!

I have 4 different brands and types of polish,,,, anywhere from Storms 1500 clean and shine to Brunswick's 5000 high polish, with several others types and brands and grits!

I must admit it fun to try different surfaces on balls, and keep written records, so that if it DOES WORK, you know you have the right formula for that ball on those lanes that night! Again,,, if you are a serious bowler, and love the sport, get yourself a spinner... cost of ONE high end ball!

[MICHAEL]

Surface preparation is very bowler, and oil pattern specific.

On a typical house condition, the last thing I need is a matte ball.


good info, and I agree about the matte ball on house condition. That too is very, (as you put it so properly) bowler specific!
Interesting info..... thanks Mike

[vdubtx]

I prefer matte finish to polish personally. I like the Hyper Cell at 2000 grit on a fresh house pattern. My Disturbed is at 1500 grit. My IQ fusion I have at 4000 no polish. First blood is the only ball I have that has polish on it, that one is at oob surface 1500 polish. Uproar I have now at 3000, thinking of taking it to 4000.

All depends on the ball and how they react on the lane for you. My iq and uproar I just did not like the reaction with polish. But, still learning both of these balls, could change in future.

[tccstudent]

I generally dont throw alot of polished equipment The only ball I have polished right now is the deadly aim

[larry mc]

I know what you have said Rob about polish, BUT in my case all, ALL my best games and series have been with Highly polished balls. I have tried here recently taking the polish off, and using my spinner to take several balls up to a 4000 surface.

RESULTS,,, not good in my case. NOt real bad, but not the energy that seems to be in the polished ball.

To me my Virtual Gravity Nano pearl, and IQ peal highly polished (almost look like marble, polished with my spinner four sides), works for ME. Another strange thing is one is symmetrical, while the other is Asymmetrical, but both Higly Polished in common!
Both have given me strong 700s and 300s! So in my case, the common denominator is POLISH!

It clears the heads great and darts into the pocket with lots of energy. All my 700's and 300s have been with higly polished balls.

I wonder what most of you out there find to be your best surface,,,, Polished, or Matte??? Now I am speaking house oil, not sports, what type of ball, POLISHED, or Matte works for you.

I am sold on polish,,, it has been VERY, VERY good to ICEMAN lol

i tend 2 like matte unless on a desert condition , i throw hard and tend 2 overpower polished equipment

[RobLV1]

It all depends on how you play the lanes. If you stand on the big dot and hit the second arrow, then polished probably works for you because YOU'RE PLAYING IN THE DIRT! If you can figure out how to get out of the parking lot and play the oil, then you will undoubtedly prefer some surface. What's your choice? Do you want to improve? Do you want to keep being a Typical House Bowler and feel good about your average on a condition that hands it to you on a silver platter? Your choice.

[Amyers]

It all depends on how you play the lanes. If you stand on the big dot and hit the second arrow, then polished probably works for you because YOU'RE PLAYING IN THE DIRT! If you can figure out how to get out of the parking lot and play the oil, then you will undoubtedly prefer some surface. What's your choice? Do you want to improve? Do you want to keep being a Typical House Bowler and feel good about your average on a condition that hands it to you on a silver platter? Your choice.

Rob I see just as many people throwing with matte surfaced balls throwing down the second arrow as I do with polished balls I am not sure that acting as if playing with a polished ball is less skilled than throwing surfaced equipment is a good equation does that mean people throwing balls with 1000 grit surface are more talented than those playing with 4000 grit surface? I get the general principle off the people who only throw one line but beyond that I'm not sure what your getting at with this. I play the second arrow sometimes 1st arrow sometimes 3rd or between 2nd and 3rd moving my feet. I am starting to learn to open my shoulders and hips allows to roll the ball farther out but I'm not sure how playing surfaced or polished equipment makes you a more or less advanced player

[RobLV1]

My comment had more to do with the type of reaction that many house bowlers mistakenly want to see, than with playing the second arrow. We all play the second arrow, or the first arrow, or the third arrow, etc. when the condition demands it. The fact of the matter is that among bowlers at the highest level, you will rarely see a polished bowling ball. These bowlers are looking for a smooth, consistent reaction that will carry the most corner pins, and find that polished balls tend to over-react to friction. Many house bowlers are looking for a hockey-stick type of reaction that looks very impressive, but doesn't do nearly as effective a job in carrying the corner pins. A polished ball playing the oil line gives them the look that they like, just not the carry that they could get by learning to play different parts of the lane with non-polished equipment.

[Amyers]

My comment had more to do with the type of reaction that many house bowlers mistakenly want to see, than with playing the second arrow. We all play the second arrow, or the first arrow, or the third arrow, etc. when the condition demands it. The fact of the matter is that among bowlers at the highest level, you will rarely see a polished bowling ball. These bowlers are looking for a smooth, consistent reaction that will carry the most corner pins, and find that polished balls tend to over-react to friction. Many house bowlers are looking for a hockey-stick type of reaction that looks very impressive, but doesn't do nearly as effective a job in carrying the corner pins. A polished ball playing the oil line gives them the look that they like, just not the carry that they could get by learning to play different parts of the lane with non-polished equipment.

Okay that makes much more sense to me

[rv driver]

My comment had more to do with the type of reaction that many house bowlers mistakenly want to see, than with playing the second arrow. We all play the second arrow, or the first arrow, or the third arrow, etc. when the condition demands it. The fact of the matter is that among bowlers at the highest level, you will rarely see a polished bowling ball. These bowlers are looking for a smooth, consistent reaction that will carry the most corner pins, and find that polished balls tend to over-react to friction. Many house bowlers are looking for a hockey-stick type of reaction that looks very impressive, but doesn't do nearly as effective a job in carrying the corner pins. A polished ball playing the oil line gives them the look that they like, just not the carry that they could get by learning to play different parts of the lane with non-polished equipment.
I understood that matte balls reacted more to friction than polished. ?!?!

[Stormed1]

A lot depends on oil pattern,lane surface, ball speed,rev rate..etc. As aslower spped bowler with a rev rate of 600+325 for my Friday league I have a Disturbed at 500/4000, Primal Rage OOB (1500 polished) Venom Shock OOB 000 matte), Tribal OOB (2000 polished) and IQ Tour Fusion OOB (1500 polished). This league is on 2nd generation Pro-Anvilane. My Monday league is on older Brunswick synthetics which have a lot of friction. My arsenal for there is Times Up solid 4000 + polish, Times Up pearl 2000 + polish, Gold IQ Tour pearl 3000 + polish and a silver Recon 4000 + polish. When I sub on Tuesday and friday nights on wood I take a Cobra se 4000+polish, Ascent Pearl 4000 + polish and the 2 Times up(

[MICHAEL]

Not sure why, but all my very best games are with polish period!!

I found with the Byte that I can play the inside, and it does a beautiful hook back into the pocket that hardly EVER leaves a 10 or 7. I bolwed for several hours that day, (the day of the Storm demo), and like my Virtual Gravity, nanno peal, or my IQ butterscotch peal, this SURFACE and finish works great for me.

I will pick my new Byte up Thursday afternoon, can't wait to see if it has the magic that the demo ball had. My driller, and owner of BP Pro Shop, Bruce Provost is not only a hell of a bowler, but and X pro! We took pictures of THAT ball from all angles, even weighed it to make sure the layout will be very close!

He now drills for some of the Pros to this day, and has balls ordered and drilled for people all over the world. He knows his stuff!

I guess I was a bit surprised how well the Byte works on the inside, being polished, and I believe 1500 grit.

QUESTION: On a Storm ball, when it says 1500 out of box, what process do you apply to get that, and do most of you pro shop guys, when doing it for a customer, do you use the 4 side, or 6 side resurfacing technique

[bowl1820]

QUESTION: On a Storm ball, when it says 1500 out of box, what process do you apply to get that, and do most of you pro shop guys, when doing it for a customer, do you use the 4 side, or 6 side resurfacing technique

Here you go again:

From Storm:
1500-grit Polished Factory Finish
1. 500-grit pad – Sand firmly for 30 seconds on all four sides.
2. 1000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
3. 2000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
4. 4000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
5. Storm® Step Two™ – Polish lightly for 15 seconds on each side.

[RobLV1]

rv driver: Matt balls find more friction in the oil, while polished balls reaction more violently to the friction and skid more in the oil. The reason that most of the pros tend to avoid polished balls is that they are prone to inconsistency on over/under conditions. Most typical house shots are over/under by nature with an oil line being provided for bowlers around the second arrow.

[rv driver]

rv driver: Matt balls find more friction in the oil, while polished balls reaction more violently to the friction and skid more in the oil. The reason that most of the pros tend to avoid polished balls is that they are prone to inconsistency on over/under conditions. Most typical house shots are over/under by nature with an oil line being provided for bowlers around the second arrow.
Ok. Makes sense. Thanks!

[MICHAEL]

Here you go again:

From Storm:
1500-grit Polished Factory Finish
1. 500-grit pad – Sand firmly for 30 seconds on all four sides.
2. 1000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
3. 2000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
4. 4000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
5. Storm® Step Two™ – Polish lightly for 15 seconds on each side.

LOL,,,,AGAIN,,,LOL,,, You know want doesn't make sense to me is they say 1500 finish out of box! OK.... but what you listed above sounds to me like a 4000 finish with Storm Step Two which says its a 1500 polish... VERY confusing to ICEMAN!! Thanks bud!!!

[bowl1820]

LOL,,,,AGAIN,,,LOL,,, You know want doesn't make sense to me is they say 1500 finish out of box! OK.... but what you listed above sounds to me like a 4000 finish with Storm Step Two which says its a 1500 polish... VERY confusing to ICEMAN!! Thanks bud!!!

It has to do with the underlying grits and the valleys, ridges, peaks they create, not just the final grit used or polish used.

[vdubtx]

I agree ICEMAN, I was similarly confused when I went to put a fresh surface on the IQ Fusion I got use about a month ago. Had to really dig into that to find what abralon pads to use for it. Even more confused when it said to use up to 4000 abralon.

[MICHAEL]

It has to do with the underlying grits and the valleys, ridges, peaks they create, not just the final grit used or polish used.

To me 1500 FINISH, I would assume means, final result 1500! (:) why not say what it actually is, 500, 1000, 2000, and 4000! How in the hell do they call it 1500?

It's all very confusing,,, I do understand completely the underlying grits, and their purpose! But to call a ball a 1500 grit out of box, and its not, is confusing.

I know that the whole process is not a Science. 30 seconds with 500,,, hand pressure even with a spinner is not going to be consistent on all four sides..... not to mention the 20 seconds with the other girts... maybe the ball machines are much more accurate, then what a person can achieve by hand.

QUESTION: What is a matte 4000 finish say on a storm ball.... what steps do you go through for a 4000 grit out of box, like say ( I believe the lucid, or maybe the Gravity?

[Amyers]

You know back in the old days late 80's for me I don't remember polish having a grit did it always and I just didn't know it or is that newer?

[bowl1820]

QUESTION: What is a matte 4000 finish say on a storm ball.... what steps do you go through for a 4000 grit out of box, like say ( I believe the lucid, or maybe the Gravity?

Okay here that is again:

Storm 4000-grit Factory Finish
1. 500-grit pad – Sand firmly for 30 seconds on all four sides.
2. 2000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 10 seconds on all four sides.
3. 4000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 5 seconds on all four sides.

[bowl1820]

You know back in the old days late 80's for me I don't remember polish having a grit did it always and I just didn't know it or is that newer?

For the most part back in the day, most polishes were just re-purposed auto polishes. They didn't for the most part have grits listed.

Also the grits listed are more like approximations, because there's not really a grit scale for liquid abrasives/polishes.

[Amyers]

For the most part back in the day, most polishes were just re-purposed auto polishes. They didn't for the most part have grits listed.

Also the grits listed are more like approximations, because there's not really a grit scale for liquid abrasives/polishes.

Thanks I have been wondering about that

[MICHAEL]

Okay here that is again:

Storm 4000-grit Factory Finish
1. 500-grit pad – Sand firmly for 30 seconds on all four sides.
2. 2000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 10 seconds on all four sides.
3. 4000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 5 seconds on all four sides.

WOW,,,, TALK ABOUT CRAZY!!!!! So the only difference between a 1500 finish and a 4000 finish is ONE FRICKEN STEP leave out the 1000 on the 1500 grit.... OOOO and the 10 seconds on the 2000, and 5 seconds on the 4000.....

CRAZY,,, not logical at ALL!

Someone needs to come up with a factory finish that makes sense in regards to steps taken!!

http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg546/imagine686868/crazy-person_zps10f29b81.jpg (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/imagine686868/media/crazy-person_zps10f29b81.jpg.html)

[bowl1820]

WOW,,,, TALK ABOUT CRAZY!!!!! So the only difference between a 1500 finish and a 4000 finish is ONE FRICKEN STEP leave out the 1000 on the 1500 grit.... OOOO and the 10 seconds on the 2000, and 5 seconds on the 4000.....

CRAZY,,, not logical at ALL!

Someone needs to come up with a factory finish that makes sense in regards to steps taken!!

No the difference between the 1500 and the 4000 is

leaving off 2 steps, the polish & the 1000 grit

as well as the difference in the sanding times.


There's logic and science and it's about creating the proper surface topography to allow the ball to read the lane properly.

[MICHAEL]

No the difference between the 1500 and the 4000 is

leaving off 2 steps, the polish & the 1000 grit

as well as the difference in the sanding times.


There's logic and science and it's about creating the proper surface topography to allow the ball to read the lane properly.

YES, I did know from reading your info that the polish was not on the 4000 finish.... and that the sanding times were different!

I also realize its for a certain PROPERTY to the balls surface.... but,,, BUT THE FRICKEN NAMES GIVE YOU NO CLUE AS to what it is... (:)

a storm 1500 is NOT A 1500 grit. Why not call them a Name, instead of a grit? LIKE all Storm ball with a 1500 grit out of box, call them
Surface 1, since its a very standared surface,,,, call the 4000 Surface 2,,,, the damn number don't jive with EVEN THE FINAL STEP of a 1500.

Is it just ME.....

by giving them a name you could go to storm and find out what steps, it takes to get THAT SURFACE.

I sometimes think some people think that just touching up a ball with 4000 grit pad, gives them the out of box surface for a 4000,,,, but as I now know its NOT! NOT EVEN CLOSE, and could actually make the ball self destruct!! (:)

You need all the other steps to make it a ACTUAL out of box 4000....

They need to lose the 4000 out of box title and give it a SURFACE NAME......so says ICEMAN!!!

[vdubtx]

I think Storm may use a different grit chart than other companies, thus the use of the abralon pads for instance at 4000 grit = 1500 grit in US terms. Europe(where the Abralon abrasives are produced) uses a standard called FEPA. USA uses a ANSI or CAMI standard.

Check out this chart.
http://home.earthlink.net/~litefrozen/downloads/bowling_grit_chart.pdf

[bowl1820]

by giving them a name you could go to storm and find out what steps, it takes to get THAT SURFACE.


You can already do that.

The link for the surface chart has been posted numerous times, in your other threads talking about surfaces, in other peoples threads about surfaces.

Here it is again
http://www.stormbowling.com/docs/Resurfacing_Guide_2012.pdf

Just right click on this link and "Save Link As"

[Amyers]

For the most part back in the day, most polishes were just re-purposed auto polishes. They didn't for the most part have grits listed.

Also the grits listed are more like approximations, because there's not really a grit scale for liquid abrasives/polishes.

Oh for the good old days I bet you never seen it advertised as urethane 1500 turtle wax polished

[MICHAEL]

You can already do that.

The link for the surface chart has been posted numerous times, in your other threads talking about surfaces, in other peoples threads about surfaces.

Here it is again
http://www.stormbowling.com/docs/Resurfacing_Guide_2012.pdf

Just right click on this link and "Save Link As"

I KNOW,, bowl1820.... I KNOW!! LOL IT JUST doesn't make sense! I do use the method shown and have since I got my spinner. I like the 4 side appellation vs the 6 sides!

YES THEY HAVE BEEN POSTED numerous times,,,, and their is something psychologically disturbing about the whole GET-UP, that makes me want to FORGET-ABOUT-IT!!

BUT<<< BUT,,, I did write ALL you info down, and just took it out to my Bowling Work Shop!!

I WILL NEVER ASK AGAIN..... BaNk On It! (:)

[Amyers]

I KNOW,, bowl1820.... I KNOW!! LOL IT JUST doesn't make sense! I do use the method shown and have since I got my spinner. I like the 4 side appellation vs the 6 sides!

YES THEY HAVE BEEN POSTED numerous times,,,, and their is something psychologically disturbing about the whole GET-UP, that makes me want to FORGET-ABOUT-IT!!

BUT<<< BUT,,, I did write ALL you info down, and just took it out to my Bowling Work Shop!!

I WILL NEVER ASK AGAIN..... BaNk On It! (:)

Until you decide to resurface a non storm ball or lose what you wrote it on anyway😊

[rv driver]

This seems so fussy. If you're good and knowledgeable enough to know that your ball needs resurfacing, you're likely to know 1 of 2 things: 1) the steps necessary to correct the balls' surface, or 2) take it to the pro and say, "The ball ain't workin' right." The pro will watch you bowl, know what needs to happen, and fix the ball.

[vdubtx]

2) take it to the pro and say, "The ball ain't workin' right." The pro will watch you bowl, know what needs to happen, and fix the ball.

This isn't always feasible or easy, as many pro shops don't like to take the time to learn about the bowler. Only there to take your money and ask "What do you want it to do?". I finally gave up on the pro shops with that mentality in my area and found one that actually cares about your game, your arsenal, and makes suggestions based on it.

[vdubtx]

You can already do that.

The link for the surface chart has been posted numerous times, in your other threads talking about surfaces, in other peoples threads about surfaces.

Here it is again
http://www.stormbowling.com/docs/Resurfacing_Guide_2012.pdf

Just right click on this link and "Save Link As"

When the topic rises AGAIN, maybe since you are the mod, move the discussion to one of the previously discussed threads so all information is in one place. I am grateful though that you post the links to the information AGAIN, as I don't remember seeing those discussions prior to this thread. So many threads gets buried with other topics etc. it is hard to find the info AGAIN even if I did read it before. :cool:

[vdubtx]

BUT THE FRICKEN NAMES GIVE YOU NO CLUE AS to what it is... (:)


Also, ICEMAN, you can go to each page on the Storm site for the particular ball you are wanting information on and click on the "Downloads" link and it will give you a link to the Tech Specs for the ball including surfacing instructions.

Here's the page and Tech sheet for your new ball.

Storm Byte (http://www.stormbowling.com/products/balls/byte)

Storm Byte Tech Sheet (http://www.stormbowling.com/tech-sheets/tybawadiuwz-techsheet.pdf)

:cool:

[rv driver]

This isn't always feasible or easy, as many pro shops don't like to take the time to learn about the bowler. Only there to take your money and ask "What do you want it to do?". I finally gave up on the pro shops with that mentality in my area and found one that actually cares about your game, your arsenal, and makes suggestions based on it.
Fortunately, I've never had a center/pro who didn't take the time with me when I asked. But I'm sure there are more than a few out there.

[MICHAEL]

Also, ICEMAN, you can go to each page on the Storm site for the particular ball you are wanting information on and click on the "Downloads" link and it will give you a link to the Tech Specs for the ball including surfacing instructions.

Here's the page and Tech sheet for your new ball.

Storm Byte (http://www.stormbowling.com/products/balls/byte)

Storm Byte Tech Sheet (http://www.stormbowling.com/tech-sheets/tybawadiuwz-techsheet.pdf)

:cool:


SOMETHING ELSE that I don't get is this: When I went to the Storm Demo day, that Byte ball that I had such GREAT SHOTS WITH, was drilled with the pin right between the middle and ring finger about 1/2 inch up!

I took pictures of it so that I could drill mine as CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THAT LAYOUT. ((((guess what?? That FRICKEN layout is NOT,,, NOT even mentioned, or shown on THEIR recommended drilling FOR THE BYTE!!???

So I am having it drilled today, with the layout that the DEMO BALL had that day, with the various pitches and even distances between holes, and its not even shown on their ball specks as a recommended layout?

WHAT THE .... I DON"T GET IT!

THANKS BUD, for the information!

[Amyers]

SOMETHING ELSE that I don't get is this: When I went to the Storm Demo day, that Byte ball that I had such GREAT SHOTS WITH, was drilled with the pin right between the middle and ring finger about 1/2 inch up!

I took pictures of it so that I could drill mine as CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THAT LAYOUT. ((((guess what?? That FRICKEN layout is NOT,,, NOT even mentioned, or shown on THEIR recommended drilling FOR THE BYTE!!???

So I am having it drilled today, with the layout that the DEMO BALL had that day, with the various pitches and even distances between holes, and its not even shown on their ball specks as a recommended layout?

WHAT THE .... I DON"T GET IT!

THANKS BUD, for the information!

Iceman did you ask the driller what the purpose of this layout was strong, weak, control?

[MICHAEL]

Iceman did you ask the driller what the purpose of this layout was strong, weak, control?

NO, I didn't know that it was not LISTED AS ONE of their preferred methonds on the spec sheets??? I will call Bruce today, hopefully before he drills and ask that question. Bruce is One of the best, most knowledgeable drillers in the Kansas City area. I be he will have and answer

[Amyers]

NO, I didn't know that it was not LISTED AS ONE of their preferred methonds on the spec sheets??? I will call Bruce today, hopefully before he drills and ask that question. Bruce is One of the best, most knowledgeable drillers in the Kansas City area. I be he will have and answer

Well as long as it works I guess it really doesn't matter but would be interesting to know it strange that they used a drilling on a test ball that's not on their sheets.

[vdubtx]

Did you get the layout info from the demo ball? If not, it will probably be difficult to replicate it. Other things to consider are the pin distance from CG and also the top weight of the ball used in the demo. The preferred methods/layouts on the spec sheet are just generic and up to the driller to tweak for individual bowlers style etc.

[MICHAEL]

Did you get the layout info from the demo ball? If not, it will probably be difficult to replicate it. Other things to consider are the pin distance from CG and also the top weight of the ball used in the demo. The preferred methods/layouts on the spec sheet are just generic and up to the driller to tweak for individual bowlers style etc.

YES we not only took several pictures of lay out, we measured it, and also checked the pitches of each hole! Only thing I didn't get was the surface?
Bruce, owner of BP Pro Shop, knows the Storm Rep well that came with the demo balls, and said he could give him a call an get even more info.

He said, Bruce, he wished he would have known I wanted to by the demo, he would have got it done at a discounted price????? DAMN!!! I should have talked to him.

[vdubtx]

YES we not only took several pictures of lay out, we measured it, and also checked the pitches of each hole! Only thing I didn't get was the surface?
Bruce, owner of BP Pro Shop, knows the Storm Rep well that came with the demo balls, and said he could give him a call an get even more info.

He said, Bruce, he wished he would have known I wanted to by the demo, he would have got it done at a discounted price????? DAMN!!! I should have talked to him.

Are you changing the pitches of your grip to match the demo ball?? Curious as you are already set with a fitting. Changing things can have other consequences.

[bowl1820]

I took pictures of it so that I could drill mine as CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THAT LAYOUT. ((((guess what?? That FRICKEN layout is NOT,,, NOT even mentioned, or shown on THEIR recommended drilling FOR THE BYTE!!???

So I am having it drilled today, with the layout that the DEMO BALL had that day, with the various pitches and even distances between holes, and its not even shown on their ball specks as a recommended layout?


Just because the ball didn't look like the picture on the drill sheet, doesn't mean it wasn't there. The PAP they used to layout the demo ball was probably different than the generic PAP used on the sheet.

Like it say's on a lot of drill sheets:
"Drilling layouts may look different than illustrated based on bowlers ball track and axis point."

Given that it's a demo ball they would have used a layout that would be controllable and work okay for several different types of bowlers.

The layouts shown on the sheets are not "preferred" Layouts, they are like generic layouts.

The thing wrong with the drill sheets included with the balls is that they're kinda vague and while a "Early Hook Layout" from a box sheet might work for one person, it might not work the same for another bowler because most bowlers have different release specs.

[RobLV1]

Well stated, Al. Many bowlers think that layouts are magic. Where you drill the holes in a bowling ball determines how the core is positioned within the ball in relation to the bowlers positive axis point. Personally, I really think that the positive axis point (PAP) should be renamed the personal axis point (PAP) so that bowlers will understand that matching how a layout looks on another bowling ball has nothing whatsoever to do with how the same layout will look on your ball. The layout simply determines the actual core numbers and how they are changed when holes are drilled in a bowling ball.