Bowling Ball Cleaning and Maintenance

[bowl1820]

So you ask how do I maintain a ball? We'll start with the basic's.

Every bowler should have a microfiber towel and a spray bottle of a approved cleaner in their bag.

USBC BALL CLEANER LIST - ACCEPTABLE
http://usbcongress.http.internapcdn.net/usbcongress/bowl/equipandspecs/pdfs/Approved_cleaner_polish.pdf

USBC BALL CLEANER LIST - NON-ACCEPTABLE
http://usbcongress.http.internapcdn.net/usbcongress/bowl/equipandspecs/pdfs/Non_approved_cleaner_polish.pdf

Cleaning:
1- Wipe your ball off after every shot. This should be part of your pre-shot routine.

2- After you get done bowling a session, you should clean your ball off with a approved cleaner.

These two things do the most to help reduce oil absorption into the cover of the ball.

3. Do a deep cleaning about every 50 – 75 games. This will help in removing any oil absorbed into the cover.

A deep clean is where your attemping to remove soaked in oil and dirt from the ball's cover.

How to do a Deep Cleaning at home:

You'll need a bucket or sink, a wash cloth and a dish washing detergent with a degreasing agent in it.

Simply check on the label and be sure it is has a degreaser. I recommend Dawn or Dawn Direct Foam.

1. Fill a sink or bucket with warm water and a small amount of the detergent about 2-3 teaspoons. Be sure that the water is only warm and not too hot.

2. Place the bowling ball in the warm soapy water with the holes pointing down (or cover them) and let it soak for 10 – 15 minutes.

At this point, Rub the bowling ball with the wash cloth. This helps loosen and remove grime from the surface.

3. Next remove the ball from the water and drain the water. Then repeat the entire process again, until you notice no more dirt and oil in the water after the soaking phase.

4. When done dry the ball off and allow to dry for a few hours.

These simple basic cleaning steps will help keep your ball at peak performance .


These are just the basic cleaning steps, there are other optional steps for cleaning and ball surface maintenance. Those will be added later.

[bowl1820]

Wet vs Dry Sanding

http://s5.postimg.cc/xtxq4yhl3/1wetvsdry.jpg

This ball was sanded with the same grit, left-dry sanded, right-wet sanded.

Wet sanding produces a more sheen like finish, water acts as a lubricant to a point so the cutting isn't as aggressive.

Also wet sanding helps keep the dust and friction heat down, the water also helps reduce buildup of the cuttings in your pad/paper which let's them cut better and last longer.

Wet sanding is pretty much the standard when using a home spinner.

Dry sanding is a bit more aggressive and will give you a duller surface. But you get more friction which generates more heat and the pad can load up which can reduce the effectiveness of the cutting.




fyi:
Daily maintenance is the key to good coverstock performance. The most important step is to clean the ball thoroughly by hand with a good bowling ball cleaner immediately after each use before the oil can get deep into the coverstock. Preventing deep penetration of the oil into the coverstock is better, easier, and cheaper than trying to remove the oil after it gets deep into the coverstock!

[panbanger]

I use Tac Up cleaner, but the bottle I bought it in is rather large. To save space in my bag I purchased an empty 2oz spray bottle and put some of the Tac Up in there. Is this maybe not a good idea? Playing Devil's Advocate, someone could question if I was using an approved cleaner and I guess I would have no way of proving it.

Just wondering if people have run in to this problem before. I'd like all my ducks in a row once I start bowling in a USBC sanctioned setting.

[billf]

I bought my favorite cleaners in 2ounce bottles and use the bigger bottles to refill them. When I want to try a new cleaner or polish I buy the small bottle first. If I like it then I buy the big bottle.
If your league is more of a fun league rather than a real serious league, then most people wouldn't know the difference never mind that they could question it.

[GoodGorilla]

I've never done a deep cleaning before. I am worried about getting water in the fingerholes. It seems alien to me to put the thumbholes face down. I know that they will create an air pocket. But I'm scared to try that out.

[bowl1820]

I've never done a deep cleaning before. I am worried about getting water in the fingerholes. It seems alien to me to put the thumbholes face down. I know that they will create an air pocket. But I'm scared to try that out.

Some guys put duct tape over the holes or plug them in other ways.

[Tokes]

Just a couple (probably obvious) questions
1.When doing the deep cleaning am I going to take the inserts out and superglue them back in?
2. What is technically a session 1, 3, 5 games or just when you finish?

[bowl1820]

Just a couple (probably obvious) questions
1.When doing the deep cleaning am I going to take the inserts out and superglue them back in?
2. What is technically a session 1, 3, 5 games or just when you finish?

1- No, you don't have to take the grips out.

2- Typically a session is referring to a 3 game series like in a league setting. If your bowling in a 6 game tournament, that would be a session. It's basically when your done for the day though.

[Tokes]

Thanks I got one more question I notice that different balls have different finishes matte, polish, high polish... is there anything special I should do to preserve this, is just cleaning the ball good enough until after so many games, or not to worry about it?

[billf]

Each manufacturer will say on their website the steps necessary to preserve the factory finish. Matte balls just need sanding, polished balls get polish. How much and the rate of gloss depends on the manufacturer and ball.

[serial bowl]

Should I be using a USBC approved bowling ball cleaner on my reactive resin patio chairs also?

[billf]

Only if you plan on rolling your chairs down the lane.

[Tampabaybob]

Last year I pick up a tip that has worked well for me during the season. Before I bowl I use a "Mr Clean" eraser with alcohol. If you think it doesn't clean the ball try it once and you'll be amazed. The amount of dirt and oil that will come off of the ball is crazy. Just dry it off with a towel and you're good to go. I also use a Brunswick cleaner and polish once every few weeks, but for the average nite just a quick cleaning works well. AND, it's a lot cheaper than the company ball cleaners available.

By the way, I keep the alcohol and Mr Clean sponge in a zip lock bag and keep it in my tool bag all the time. I bought a small container for the alcohol so I don't have to carry the full bottle around.

Bob

[floridanative772]

Last year I pick up a tip that has worked well for me during the season. Before I bowl I use a "Mr Clean" eraser with alcohol. If you think it doesn't clean the ball try it once and you'll be amazed. The amount of dirt and oil that will come off of the ball is crazy. Just dry it off with a towel and you're good to go. I also use a Brunswick cleaner and polish once every few weeks, but for the average nite just a quick cleaning works well. AND, it's a lot cheaper than the company ball cleaners available.

By the way, I keep the alcohol and Mr Clean sponge in a zip lock bag and keep it in my tool bag all the time. I bought a small container for the alcohol so I don't have to carry the full bottle around.

Bob

That sounds like a good idea, i know the magic erasers take permantent marker off the wall that my daughter drew on there lol

[AZBowla]

Heh, I see Windex made the list of approved cleaners. I just used that on my current ball over the weekend when I noticed it was looking quite dull and dingy. I hadn't cleaned it in YEARS. Yet another use for Windex! :D

[Ball99999]

What's the best polish that's not expensive?

[Doghouse Reilly]

I like the Storm Reacta Shine, it pretty cheap.

[SouthpawTRK]

So when I'm done bowling for the night, is it best to use an approved cleaner before packing up my ball?

[bowl1820]

So when I'm done bowling for the night, is it best to use an approved cleaner before packing up my ball?

YES! The less time you leave oil on the ball surface. The less that will get absorbed into the cover, plus it will keep the inside of your bag cleaner.

[SouthpawTRK]

Thanks for the reply to my question! I'm a first time bowler and ball owner; so I want to make sure that I take care of my equipment and have it last me for many years to come.

[AngeloPD]

if you use clean n dull on a polished ball, would it remove the shine form it?

[bowl1820]

if you use clean n dull on a polished ball, would it remove the shine form it?

No the name is misleading, it doesn't "dull" a ball.

[SouthpawTRK]

Would it be best (or is it necessary) to have a see saw, even if I already use a micro fiber towel and an approved cleaner?

[bowl1820]

Would it be best (or is it necessary) to have a see saw, even if I already use a micro fiber towel and an approved cleaner?

I'd say that's kind of personal preference. I think just a towel is fine, you can get a little more pressure on the ball with it.

But I've seen guys with seesaws, spray the ball then seesaw it. You can put a microfiber towel in the seesaw and do it. They also have seesaws with microfiber linings.

[AngeloPD]

with a polished ball, wich is better, clean n dull or energizer by powerhouse. i have both of them, i just want to know which one can clean the ball better

[bowl1820]

with a polished ball, wich is better, clean n dull or energizer by powerhouse. i have both of them, i just want to know which one can clean the ball better

Make use of both

Energizer is a spray and better suited for use at the alley, Clean'N Dull is a Gel and better used at home.

Clean'N Dull is the strongest of the two and Most use it as a once a week deep cleaner.

I use Tac-Up spray cleaner at the lanes and Clean'N Dull at home to help draw out the oil.

[AngeloPD]

okay thanks for the help! energizer spray has melted the bottle cap, is that normal?

[bowl1820]

okay thanks for the help! energizer spray has melted the bottle cap, is that normal?

NO. energizer is just a simple citrus cleaner, it wouldn't melt plastic.

[SouthpawTRK]

Thanks bowl1820 on the answer to my question regarding the use of a see saw; definitely appreciated! I was wondering if a person uses cleaner in a see saw, is there any reaction to the inserts from the cleaner? Thanks for answering all my newbie questions; I just want to make sure that I take the best care of my equipment.

[HughScot]

I wrote to both Hammer and Ebonite, I know Ebonite owns Hammer, and got two replies from different staff members saying I should use the hottest water I could out of the tap. In the first post of this thread it says to use "warm water". I don't pretend to know which is right but thought I'd mention it.

[madhav1A]

nice tips for the beginer

[AngeloPD]

can you resurface a ball by hand, without a spinner? because i just bought a couple abralon pads

[bowl1820]

can you resurface a ball by hand, without a spinner? because i just bought a couple abralon pads

A true resurface (removing all nicks and scratches) would be hard.

But if your talking about just doing surface adjustments to change the reaction, then yes you can do it by hand.

[AngeloPD]

yes like bringing the ball back to its original finish

[billf]

yes like bringing the ball back to its original finish

Here's a tip to help prolong the life of the pads. Do it wet. I put my balls in the kitchen sink with the water running over the ball and pads the entire time. It not only makes a better, no sand line finish on the ball it also helps keep debris out of the pads.

[AngeloPD]

Thanks Bill!

[GeoLes]

I have used standard window cleaner followed by a wipe with denatured Alcohol. If there is any window cleaner resdue, the alcohol will remove it. It is not listed in the USBC list, but is it okay?, illegal? Okay for at home, but not on the lanes?

[bowl1820]

I have used standard window cleaner followed by a wipe with denatured Alcohol. If there is any window cleaner resdue, the alcohol will remove it. It is not listed in the USBC list, but is it okay?, illegal? Okay for at home, but not on the lanes?

The Denatured alcohol is listed under:

COMMERCIAL PRODUCTS APPROVED AT ANYTIME
Denatured alcohol (Ethyl alcohol, denatured)

As for the window cleaner if it's not listed, it would be assumed not approved anytime until it was approved.

[e-tank]

Would urethane balls need as much maintenance since they dont absorb as much oil? I still wipe it off between shots and after games and have cleaned it with diluted rubbing alcohol once

[bowl1820]

Would urethane balls need as much maintenance since they dont absorb as much oil? I still wipe it off between shots and after games and have cleaned it with diluted rubbing alcohol once

It's not that they don't absorb as much oil, they just just don't absorb it as fast.

[e-tank]

ah okay. Theyre my dads old balls from the 80's and he said he never cleaned them so they could potentially benefit from a deep cleaning?

[jbeck]

Wonder if the same steps for cleaning a reactive ball does the same for a plastic ball and do the plastic ball absorbs oil too? My son bowls a plastic ball for now, but it looks very dull now and my ball cleaner doesn't do much to it. Also is there any other product that can be used to polish a ball? My normal pro shop don't carry the polishes I see on bowlingball.com. I was wondering if a car polish would work...just curious.

[J Anderson]

Wonder if the same steps for cleaning a reactive ball does the same for a plastic ball and do the plastic ball absorbs oil too? My son bowls a plastic ball for now, but it looks very dull now and my ball cleaner doesn't do much to it. Also is there any other product that can be used to polish a ball? My normal pro shop don't carry the polishes I see on bowlingball.com. I was wondering if a car polish would work...just curious.

A plastic ball doesn't absorb oil. If your son is learning to throw a hook, dull is good. If he just throws straight, polish will help keep it going straight even if he does get some axis rotation. On a plastic ball any car polish will work. n higher end balls certain additives should be avoided, like silicone.

[kx90]

I checked on DV8's website but they don't mention any specific type of cleaner or process to use to clean their bowling balls.

So I'm trying to decide what to use on my HellRaiser Terror. I've got 12 games on it now in about 4 weeks and aside from wiping it down during and after each session I haven't cleaned it with any chemicals yet. I noticed today that it's picking up all kinds of crap so that's what I'm here now asking the question: What type, brand cleaner would be preferrable for a DV8 HR Terror?

I remember I could see all the crud showing up on my Rhino Teal through out each series, but it was solid teal and it was easy to see all the black crud. My DV8 is black and blue and it's harder to see it so I only noticed it when I ran my hand over it at the start of the second game today.

[got_a_300]

What type, brand cleaner would be preferrable for a DV8 HR Terror?

You can use all USBC approved cleaners as they all will work on the DV8 balls or
you can just buy some Brunswick cleaner and or polish to use on it since DV8 is
also made by an offshoot company of Brunswick.

Brunswick cleaners and polishes (http://www.bowlingball.com/shop/brunswick/bowling-accessories/?Attribute_50=Cleaners+and+Polish)

[Cochese]

I have the DV8 Terror. I use a 3 equal part mix of Simple Green, 91% rubbing alcohol and water. Works great and its cheap.

[got_a_300]

I have the DV8 Terror. I use a 3 equal part mix of Simple Green, 91% rubbing alcohol and water. Works great and its cheap.

That is basically the same thing I use to clean all of my bowling balls
with except I just use a simple 50/50 mixture of Simple Green and some
91% rubbing alcohol.

I might just try adding some water to the next batch I mix up to try and
make the Simple Green and alcohol go farther and last a bit longer.

[kx90]

You can use all USBC approved cleaners as they all will work on the DV8 balls or
you can just buy some Brunswick cleaner and or polish to use on it since DV8 is
also made by an offshoot company of Brunswick.

Brunswick cleaners and polishes (http://www.bowlingball.com/shop/brunswick/bowling-accessories/?Attribute_50=Cleaners+and+Polish)

I ordered these the other day from bowlingball.com

1 2286 Ebonite Powerhouse Energizer 5 oz

1 5796 Ebonite Powerhouse Clean n' Dull 5 oz


I think I found them on the USBC list under the manfacturer 'Track Ebonite Power House'. The Energizer is approved for anytime use and the Clean n' Dull is approved for Before/After competition use.

[panbanger]

Yesterday I layed my Misfit next to my space heater. Now when I say space heater I don't mean the typical kind that looks like the inside of a toaster, I mean the kind that looks like a radiator but it's filled with oil, not water. So anyways I layed my ball about 6 inches from it, and after about 5 minutes a whole bunch of oil was visible on the surface nearest the heater. I then sprayed it with Tac Up and wiped it off. I had to rotate the ball and repeat this process about 5-6 times to get the whole surface of the ball, but I was pretty amazed at how much oil came out of the ball from this.

I wipe my ball off between shots, but honestly I do usually wait a day or 2 to spray it down and give it a proper cleaning after I bowl. I guess it just goes to show you how quickly oil can get soaked in to a ball. I was wondering why I wasn't getting much movement out of my ball at league over the weekend, I think I know why now! :eek:

[kx90]

So I got the cleaning products that I ordered the other day. Last night I sat down and used the Clean 'N Dull, unfortunately there isn't any detailed instructions on the bottle and I can't seem to find much online.

So what I did was apply some to a rag and started wiping down the ball. Yes it cleaned it up quite a bit but there is still a little bit of crud on the ball. So I did a bit more searching. I found some old forum post that stated they wiped the gel onto the ball and let it sit for 45-60 seconds then they began wiping the ball down with a rag.

Tonight I was going to do it again but this time I'm going to spread the gel on and then leave it sit for a minute or two then wipe it off.

Am I on the right track here or no?

[bowl1820]

Here's from the org. instructions for Clean'n Dull.

For best results, apply small amount to a clean towel. Apply light pressure in a circular motion, doing 1/4 to 1/2 the ball at a time. Remove with a damp towel, then dry towel & repeat on remainder of ball.

[Brother_jd]

So I figured i would try something new to get the oil out of my ball. My wife's hair dryer. I put it on low heat and it worked wonders. Took about 30 mins.

[Perrin]

Tried the warm water bucket and dish soap thing this weekend.

Hopefully it works out well :)

[Greenday]

Anyone have suggestions for which any-time cleaner to use between games? My pro shop guy gave me a bottle of Tac-Up for my duller, stronger balls, but I wasn't sure if that's what I should be using for balls like my Frantic or Tropical Breeze. I don't want to use something that's going to make them super grippy, just something to take the oil off the cover but will still keep it shiny.

[Perrin]

Tried the warm water bucket and dish soap thing this weekend.

Hopefully it works out well :)

well it helped a bit but not much.

I finally broke down and used the dishwasher on the light wash cycle with sanitizing and heated dry turned off.


Worked wonders. brought the coverstock almost back to OOB reaction. If I had the equipment to actually restore the surface back I think I would have gotten back to OOB reaction.

[GoodGravy]

I bowl about 12 games a week, and got a new ball (V.G. Nano Pearl) about 2 1/2 months ago or about 10 weeks. So, long story short, 120 games later, my 'new' ball went from major back end movement to almost nothing. I use cleaner after every session (3-4 games) and wipe my ball after almost every shot, however, the oil finally built up to make the ball almost useless.

So today I pulled out a couple of desk lamps and just set them near the ball and after just a few minutes the oil was just running down the sides of the ball. Now I have done some a lot of research on line about how dangerous it is to 'cook' your ball in an oven or use your dishwasher and you should have your ball professionaly cleaned in a revivor, but running to the pro shop all the time is just not practical. Between my wife, kid and myself, I am building up quite a collection of reactive coverstock balls and I am getting desperate to figuring out a way I can do this at home.

I'm headed back to the lanes tomorrow to see if my little desk lamp trick worked...keeping my fingers crossed....

[billf]

I bowl about 12 games a week, and got a new ball (V.G. Nano Pearl) about 2 1/2 months ago or about 10 weeks. So, long story short, 120 games later, my 'new' ball went from major back end movement to almost nothing. I use cleaner after every session (3-4 games) and wipe my ball after almost every shot, however, the oil finally built up to make the ball almost useless.

So today I pulled out a couple of desk lamps and just set them near the ball and after just a few minutes the oil was just running down the sides of the ball. Now I have done some a lot of research on line about how dangerous it is to 'cook' your ball in an oven or use your dishwasher and you should have your ball professionaly cleaned in a revivor, but running to the pro shop all the time is just not practical. Between my wife, kid and myself, I am building up quite a collection of reactive coverstock balls and I am getting desperate to figuring out a way I can do this at home.

I'm headed back to the lanes tomorrow to see if my little desk lamp trick worked...keeping my fingers crossed....


Have you seen the threads on de-oiling with dish soap? It works. Also, use high quality floor dry from the automotive store and put the ball in it for 24 hours. Both will pull the oil out without heat. As for heat; why is it safe for the shop to put it in an oven but not the owner? I have baked mine at 130° but make sure you put a drip tray under the rack and rotate the ball often to prevent marks.

[GoodGravy]

Great point on 'why is it safe for the shop to put it in the oven and not the owner'!!

I have had a couple of guys from the local bowling alley that I would consider trustworthy sources tell me the same thing about hot water dunking and dish soap. As an interesting side note, I saw that Hammer has a ball cleaning tank called the Wave that they are now using also.

Gonna give the hot water thing a shot!

[Greenday]

The Wave ball cleaner is pretty awesome. I saw a bunch in action while in Reno. Looks super awesome!

I still wish someone would come up with a ball oven/washer/etc. that'd be cheap enough for personal purchase.

[ecub]

I saw someone's review on The Wave. It's messy and uses chemicals. Plus lighter balls would float. I still like my Innovative Revivor oven. Yes, it is expensive. You can do 2 bowling balls, and the pads are $10 for a pack of (I think) 20. I found out you can re-use the pads, if you let them dry. I ran out of pads once, and used one that had been sitting around for over a year or so. Cleaned it off like it was brand new.

[bowl1820]

I still wish someone would come up with a ball oven/washer/etc. that'd be cheap enough for personal purchase.

They do look at this thread
http://www.bowlingboards.com/threads/13933-NuBall-Bowling-Ball-Rejuvenator

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/4182XENYN7L.jpg

[Greenday]

I know what I'm purchasing with my first paycheck when I start working full-time.

[josheaton16]

if when you wash your ball if water gets into the finger holes can it damage the ball? I'm a little nervous about just dropping my ball in a bucket of water lol

[bowl1820]

if when you wash your ball if water gets into the finger holes can it damage the ball? I'm a little nervous about just dropping my ball in a bucket of water lol

No the main thing is to let it dry before you bowl wit it. If the holes are still moist it could hang on your fingers or thumb. But it won't hurt the ball.

When you put the ball in the water just point the holes down, the air trapped in them will keep the water out or put some tape over the holes.

[josheaton16]

Thanks for the quick response.

[scruffwhor]

what about a 50/50 mix of simple green and 99% denatured ethyl alcohol?????


is that a little too much maybe????

[Baller]

I just bought a Roto Grip Shout and it is a dull ball. Can someone recommend a good cleaner? It is my first ball and I want to keep it in good condition.

Thanks!

[Amyers]

I just bought a Roto Grip Shout and it is a dull ball. Can someone recommend a good cleaner? It is my first ball and I want to keep it in good condition.

Thanks!

I really like the Storm Reacta Foam. Its about $15 dollars a bottle I've been using it for about 5 months and still have some and we bowl a lot and clean after every session. The foam is easier to use on the lanes because it doesn't run off and make a mess so you clean your ball right there on the lane. The other cleaner I tried was watery and ran off the balls.

[Joker]

can anyone recommend me a better polished ball cleaner. I use tac up on my polished equip with everything else, but it just peels the polish off and makes the reaction like I sanded it instead of polished

[Amyers]

Tac up is removing the polish from your ball? I've never heard of that and I know people who use it. I use storms Reacta foam and like it no mess. I'd show it to the people at your pro shop makes me wonder if there wasn't something wrong with the polish used on the ball

[Blomer]

I really like the Storm Reacta Foam. Its about $15 dollars a bottle I've been using it for about 5 months and still have some and we bowl a lot and clean after every session. The foam is easier to use on the lanes because it doesn't run off and make a mess so you clean your ball right there on the lane. The other cleaner I tried was watery and ran off the balls.

I just bought some and like it a lot! Good size bottle. Foam is great, doesnt take much to clean!

[Amyers]

I just bought some and like it a lot! Good size bottle. Foam is great, doesnt take much to clean!

I've been using it over 6 months now still have a little left and I use it on mine and my wife's ball and we bowl a lot.

[Joker]

ended up going back to the pro shop and said maybe there was something wrong from last time, but he recommended storm reacts shine polish and cleaner for my polished equipment. Anyone try this cleaner before?

[bowl1820]

ended up going back to the pro shop and said maybe there was something wrong from last time, but he recommended storm reacts shine polish and cleaner for my polished equipment. Anyone try this cleaner before?

I've used Reacta Shine Cleaner/polish, it works okay.

I don't personally use Cleaner/polishes, I want cleaners for cleaning and polishes for polishing. Because when I clean I'm not wanting to change the surface, just clean.

[Joker]

that makes sense.. maybe ill give that foam a try

[Jessiewoodard57]

I to use the Reacta Shine on everything also and love it

[Tony]

I just bought a Roto Grip Shout and it is a dull ball. Can someone recommend a good cleaner? It is my first ball and I want to keep it in good condition.

Thanks!

On that type of ball many people use a basic cleaner mix 50/50 alcohol and simple green, works like a champ getting off oil and lane gook.
I use the same thing on all ball surfaces and on the polished balls I'll apply a coat of polish when needed.

[Cajun]

I just bought some and like it a lot! Good size bottle. Foam is great, doesnt take much to clean!

Thats what I use... My pro shop tossed it in when I bought my Devour and its good stuff.

[ChuckR]

Has anyone tried a de-greaser that might be found in an automotive shop? What about one from a Home Depot? Those should be cheap.

[bowl1820]

Has anyone tried a de-greaser that might be found in an automotive shop? What about one from a Home Depot? Those should be cheap.

At some point just about everything I think has been tried.

[ChuckR]

Is a bowling towel, like the ones given out by the lanes for the Holidays sufficient?

[bowl1820]

Is a bowling towel, like the ones given out by the lanes for the Holidays sufficient?

Most likely it will be okay.

At the moment Microfiber towels are the preferred type, they do better than the old standard cotton cloth ones.

I personally don't care for towels with silk screening or the heat set logos on them. It makes it hard to flip the towel over and use the logo side, because the logo material interferes with the cleaning.

A newer towel or "Pad" that's being used by some are the ones that use a piece of buffalo hide, leather material. They are reported to do a good job, but are expensive.

[Sche3067]

This method is great my radical feels brand new. The oil was oozing out of the cover stock. Thank you

[Sche3067]

So I rolled two games today and I was impressed with how well my ball was reading the oil. The first game my thumb was sticking in the thumb hole but I expected it after soakingthe ball with soap. After putting baby powder in the hole things got really nice for me. I was able to play all 3 zones striking on all of them. I was not able to do this before the clean. The ball comes in harder and it feels more consistent. I recommend the soak to anyone

[1VegasBowler]

In the very near future I plan on using That Purple Stuff during and after any competition.

[mc_runner]

Reviving this thread as I have a question that I didn't see answered.

Lately when I'm cleaning my balls, either with normal cleaner (every session) or clean n' dull (weekly) I've been focusing more on the track than the rest of the ball. As in I'll spray cleaner over the track then begin wiping. The rest of the ball gets some benefit but the majority of the cleaner is probably staying generally in the track area - more so for the clean n dull than the regular cleaner since it's a gel.

My question is, is there any benefit to cleaning the full surface of the ball vs. only your track? After all, your track area is the area contacting the lane and creating the movement. It just seems like a waste to clean the entire ball - unless there is a need to that I'm not thinking of.

[Amyers]

Reviving this thread as I have a question that I didn't see answered.

Lately when I'm cleaning my balls, either with normal cleaner (every session) or clean n' dull (weekly) I've been focusing more on the track than the rest of the ball. As in I'll spray cleaner over the track then begin wiping. The rest of the ball gets some benefit but the majority of the cleaner is probably staying generally in the track area - more so for the clean n dull than the regular cleaner since it's a gel.

My question is, is there any benefit to cleaning the full surface of the ball vs. only your track? After all, your track area is the area contacting the lane and creating the movement. It just seems like a waste to clean the entire ball - unless there is a need to that I'm not thinking of.

Good question. I got asked a similar question by my coach yesterday when I was hitting a ball with a pad and he's like why are you doing the whole ball and not just the track? The one thing I can think of on cleaning is removing the surface oil which could still soak in the ball but idk if it would really make that much difference.

[bowl1820]

My question is, is there any benefit to cleaning the full surface of the ball vs. only your track? After all, your track area is the area contacting the lane and creating the movement. It just seems like a waste to clean the entire ball - unless there is a need to that I'm not thinking of.

You should clean the whole ball, while the track area picks up most oil from contact with the lane. The rest of the ball picks up oil and grime from the rest of the lanes.

Such as contact with the curtain and belts in the pit which have oil and grime on them. Rolling back through the return channel and contact with the wheel or belts in the ball return which get oil on them from previous balls.

Also remember the coverstock is porous, oil is going to spread through out the coverstock over time.

Look at this way when you sweat a ball, the whole ball sweats oil not just the track area.

[bowl1820]

Good question. I got asked a similar question by my coach yesterday when I was hitting a ball with a pad and he's like why are you doing the whole ball and not just the track? The one thing I can think of on cleaning is removing the surface oil which could still soak in the ball but idk if it would really make that much difference.

Theoretically it could make the static weights illegal.

Back in the Urethane early Reactive days, there was supposed to be a few cases where some balls. Drilled close to the limits on static weights, had absorbed enough oil to push it over the limit.

I never personally seen one, just read about it a long time ago.

[fortheloveofbowling]

Good question. I got asked a similar question by my coach yesterday when I was hitting a ball with a pad and he's like why are you doing the whole ball and not just the track? The one thing I can think of on cleaning is removing the surface oil which could still soak in the ball but idk if it would really make that much difference.

Hopefully you mentioned to your coach that it is illegal to sand just a portion of the ball.

[Amyers]

Hopefully you mentioned to your coach that it is illegal to sand just a portion of the ball.

Actually I did his opinion was that since you were only lightly hitting the ball with a pad that the rule didn't apply. I'm not sure that I agree and wouldn't want to risk it before a competition. Older Senior PBA bowler has a tendency to do things his way. lol

[Amyers]

Theoretically it could make the static weights illegal.

Back in the Urethane early Reactive days, there was supposed to be a few cases where some balls. Drilled close to the limits on static weights, had absorbed enough oil to push it over the limit.

I never personally seen one, just read about it a long time ago.

Interesting would think you would see more of this now since modern balls soak up so much more oil the Urethane did.

[bowl1820]

Interesting would think you would see more of this now since modern balls soak up so much more oil the Urethane did.

It may vary well be happening, unless you went to the trouble to check (sweating a ball reweighting etc.) a ball that was legal that was then declared illegal. To see if it was oil absorbed that did it, you wouldn't know.

Most would just chalk it up to someone mis weighing to begin with.

Like I said I heard that years ago and its never came up anywhere that Ive heard of. Plus a ball would have to be right on the edge for it to matter if it did happen.

[bowl1820]

The main thing is just clean the whole ball.

Your not saving enough time or money to make it worth while, doling out cleaner with a eyedropper and just wiping the track with a Qtip. LoL

[Amyers]

The main thing is just clean the whole ball.

Your not saving enough time or money to make it worth while, doling out cleaner with a eyedropper and just wiping the track with a Qtip. LoL

Very true lol

[mc_runner]

Fair enough, whole ball it is!